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Ever wanted to ask a question or just make a random comment about something but not start a whole thread for it? Do it here with me. Let's chat. I'll start.
Honestly you should feel free to start a new topic if you want, but if you're like me sometimes, you feel silly for starting one for something basic.
1. Looking for algae scraping tool that doesn’t involve a metal blade or me sticking my arm into the tank. Not a mag float. Does anyone have a recommendation? Something like a sponge on a stick? I'm just using it for dust algae.
2. Does anyone use Ludwigia Cuba in their tanks? It used to be the plant everyone had to have years ago, and I don't remember the last time I saw a scape with it. It's still a beautiful plant, but to be fair, it grows super fast and gets big. In the past, the only nursery that supplied it had a terrible infestitation of Utricularia gibba. So if you got Cuba, you would get it. Aquarium VD is no fun.
3. Anyone used a Hygger heater? I'm looking at that one where the temp sensor is separate from the heater. Before you comment, I have a small tank and put the heater in the HOB filter to keep stuff out of the tank. I have to set the temp differently than I want the tank to be because it is sometimes colder in the HOB. So I need a small heater with an external temp sensor. I didn't want to get involved as much an an Inkbird. Not sure the reason for that. Seems an all in one solution would be easier.
4. What do you use to dose your tank with if you’re just dosing 1-2ml? I’ve been using THESE bottles from Nilogc. They are convenient, but there is something about pressing the pump. It is hard to press, and then it gives all the sudden with force creating a splash. The splash goes out or hits the light. I’m trying to be gentle but not very successfully.
Honestly you should feel free to start a new topic if you want, but if you're like me sometimes, you feel silly for starting one for something basic.
1. Looking for algae scraping tool that doesn’t involve a metal blade or me sticking my arm into the tank. Not a mag float. Does anyone have a recommendation? Something like a sponge on a stick? I'm just using it for dust algae.
2. Does anyone use Ludwigia Cuba in their tanks? It used to be the plant everyone had to have years ago, and I don't remember the last time I saw a scape with it. It's still a beautiful plant, but to be fair, it grows super fast and gets big. In the past, the only nursery that supplied it had a terrible infestitation of Utricularia gibba. So if you got Cuba, you would get it. Aquarium VD is no fun.
3. Anyone used a Hygger heater? I'm looking at that one where the temp sensor is separate from the heater. Before you comment, I have a small tank and put the heater in the HOB filter to keep stuff out of the tank. I have to set the temp differently than I want the tank to be because it is sometimes colder in the HOB. So I need a small heater with an external temp sensor. I didn't want to get involved as much an an Inkbird. Not sure the reason for that. Seems an all in one solution would be easier.
4. What do you use to dose your tank with if you’re just dosing 1-2ml? I’ve been using THESE bottles from Nilogc. They are convenient, but there is something about pressing the pump. It is hard to press, and then it gives all the sudden with force creating a splash. The splash goes out or hits the light. I’m trying to be gentle but not very successfully.
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I came into some Hygrophila polysperma "white" by Tropica recently. Grew it out and it seems to be able to be shaped into good midground bushes so I decided to create a layout to showcase it. Contemplated whether to use it as the only white plant in the tank, but decided to use some Anubias white petite as well so that the white polysperma doesn't stand out awkwardly.
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Hi All,
This is something I've been wanting to do for years, and I think I finally found a sensor that will work. I've always had trouble reading the API tests, and I've always been miffed that the reefers get the cool digital test readers - and wanted to take a crack at building one that could potentially read any freshwater test given a blank/known concentration as a calibration.
A sensor came out from ams (AS7343) in 2022 that unfortunately has been made EOL, but has a replacement (TCS34488M) with a similar package that might work for future versions.
I recently got my hands on a qwic version of the AS7343 sensor from sparkfun, and figured its time to put together something.
Goals:
I figure I'll need 2 light sources (warm white, and IR for reading the phosphate test), but can use the same sensor array across most tests. I can use a small-form ESP32 as the MCU to give it USB-C power, wifi/bt connectivity if needed, and keep it small. Small/cheap ~1.3" OLED screen for displaying results/selecting tests.
Enclosure will be 3d printed.
First pass at a sketch - I might drop the screen if I can give the device a web interface though, which will make the device even smaller/cheaper, reduces the need for physical buttons on the unit, and a 2nd pcb entirely. Also not sure if it will need a cover for the top of the vial, or how much ambient light will affect the reads. TBD. Will order some XIAO ESP32S3 to play with and see how far I can take it.
I'll log progress here, and am very open to suggestions and ideas. If successful, I'll release the files so it can be easily replicated.
This is something I've been wanting to do for years, and I think I finally found a sensor that will work. I've always had trouble reading the API tests, and I've always been miffed that the reefers get the cool digital test readers - and wanted to take a crack at building one that could potentially read any freshwater test given a blank/known concentration as a calibration.
A sensor came out from ams (AS7343) in 2022 that unfortunately has been made EOL, but has a replacement (TCS34488M) with a similar package that might work for future versions.
I recently got my hands on a qwic version of the AS7343 sensor from sparkfun, and figured its time to put together something.
Goals:
- As cheap as possible
- Universal as possible
- Fit API glass/plastic vials (not sure yet if the plastic vials will read ok)
- Start with Nitrate/Phosphate and see if I can add more there
I figure I'll need 2 light sources (warm white, and IR for reading the phosphate test), but can use the same sensor array across most tests. I can use a small-form ESP32 as the MCU to give it USB-C power, wifi/bt connectivity if needed, and keep it small. Small/cheap ~1.3" OLED screen for displaying results/selecting tests.
Enclosure will be 3d printed.
First pass at a sketch - I might drop the screen if I can give the device a web interface though, which will make the device even smaller/cheaper, reduces the need for physical buttons on the unit, and a 2nd pcb entirely. Also not sure if it will need a cover for the top of the vial, or how much ambient light will affect the reads. TBD. Will order some XIAO ESP32S3 to play with and see how far I can take it.
I'll log progress here, and am very open to suggestions and ideas. If successful, I'll release the files so it can be easily replicated.
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Curious as to what everyone is using for drop checker solution?
A premixed commercial solution? If so, are they all pretty much the same as each other or are some better than others?
Do you DIY a 4dkh solution and add bromothymol blue? If so what is your recipe?
Do you DIY your own but make it to a different dkh? I know some people go higher than 4 so the lime green is 40+ppm of CO2.
I am out of my DIY 4dkh solution that was made up so long ago I can’t remember when. Rather than just making more I thought I would see what others are doing.
Has anyone used a 2 drop checker system? I am thinking I may run a low dkh checker so it turns full yellow at 30ppm to give a floor reading and a higher dkh solution that turns green at 45ppm.
A premixed commercial solution? If so, are they all pretty much the same as each other or are some better than others?
Do you DIY a 4dkh solution and add bromothymol blue? If so what is your recipe?
Do you DIY your own but make it to a different dkh? I know some people go higher than 4 so the lime green is 40+ppm of CO2.
I am out of my DIY 4dkh solution that was made up so long ago I can’t remember when. Rather than just making more I thought I would see what others are doing.
Has anyone used a 2 drop checker system? I am thinking I may run a low dkh checker so it turns full yellow at 30ppm to give a floor reading and a higher dkh solution that turns green at 45ppm.
What drop checker solution do you use?
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Has anyone investigated how drop checker design affects its accuracy? I have two DC side by side, both at a pH of 5.5 after CO2 injection. One is visibly yellow and the other is more yellowish-green.
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I've been trying to grow some plants emersed and they aren't doing so great.
I need to take a pic, but my biggest plant keeps getting yellow tips and then getting set back.
I'm thinking maybe my substrate is too rich. I have it in 50:50 Control Soil and APT Feast. I'm wondering if the plants aren't getting fried in ammonia.
What do you think and what do you recommend that I can switch to?
I need to take a pic, but my biggest plant keeps getting yellow tips and then getting set back.
I'm thinking maybe my substrate is too rich. I have it in 50:50 Control Soil and APT Feast. I'm wondering if the plants aren't getting fried in ammonia.
What do you think and what do you recommend that I can switch to?
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As the title suggests, I would appreciate recommendations from you experts for a good all-in-one fertilizer. My plan is to dose daily using a dosing pump (with additions after water changes.)
Preferences:
Can buy in larger quantities, 500 or more.
Can be purchased somewhere local or with free shipping
Reasonable price is always appreciated.
Links are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Preferences:
Can buy in larger quantities, 500 or more.
Can be purchased somewhere local or with free shipping
Reasonable price is always appreciated.
Links are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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1052 views
Hello Welcome, Soul
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Soul!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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Legacy View
Journal Farmer D. Singh's journal
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
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Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
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