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This is an extension/excerpt from the longer nutrient stability article and why it matters :
www.2hraquarist.com
I have added a portion and simple guide for folks that are using hobbyist test kits to dial in their levels:
To have stable nutrient levels, the goal is to have the same visual shade of color when using a nitrate test kit on your aquarium at any time of the week.
To do this, you need to start by having a stable method of dosing nutrients daily. By testing to see whether nutrients build up or deplete across the week, you will know whether your daily dosing rate is higher or lower than your tank's uptake rate of nutrients.
To do this, take measurements using the test kit across the week. Take the pictures in a fixed location and store the pictures on your phone or computer to use as color comparisons for readings across the week. If your nitrate tests show lighter colors at the end of the week compared to the first day of the week, it shows that your dosing rate is lower than your aquarium's uptake rate. In aquariums where the difference in uptake and dosing rates is small, the difference may only be seen by comparing the colors on the first and last days of the week. In aquariums where the daily dosing rates differ significantly from the uptake rates of the aquarium, a color difference may be seen by mid week.
A dropping nitrate test reading at the end of the week indicates that daily additions of nitrogen are less than what the aquarium uptake rate is. In such a scenario, you should increase your daily dosing slightly to maintain stable levels. For slight differences in color (less than 5ppm), you increase your dosage by just 0.5ppm Nitrate per day. For color differences larger than 10ppm, try increasing it by 1ppm Nitrate per day.
A rising nitrate test reading at the end of the week indicates that daily additions of nitrogen are more than what the aquarium uptake rate is. In such a scenario, you should decrease your daily dosing slightly to maintain stable levels. For slight differences in color (less than 5ppm), you decrease your dosage by just 0.5ppm Nitrate per day. For color differences larger than 10ppm, try decreasing it by 1ppm Nitrate per day.
If you are using the EI dosing approach, water change day is used to reset nutrient levels. One way to hit your target saturation level on the spot without the use of test kits is to change 100% of your water and dose exactly the amount of ppm in nutrients you want. i.e. 100% water change, dose 15ppm NO3, boomz, guaranteed 15ppm of NO3 in the water column.
If you are doing say a 50% water change, and your water has 20ppm of nitrates before the water change, you would want to dose back 10ppm of nitrates back to keep nutrient levels stable at 20ppm. If your target level is 15ppm of nitrates instead, then after a 50% water change (removing 10ppm from 20ppm), you will need to dose back 5ppm of nitrates instead. Over the long run, the goal should be to keep levels the same before/after water changes.
If instead you are using the zero bound approach to nutrient dosing, then the goal is to just keep nitrates at 5ppm and below after water changes. If nutrients levels have spiked significantly during the week, say it is at 10ppm now, then just do a larger water change (80-100%).
Why nutrient level stability matters for planted aquariums
Nutrient stability in planted aquariums - how to have stable nutrient levels and why it is important. Avoid triggering algae and tip stunting.
www.2hraquarist.com
I have added a portion and simple guide for folks that are using hobbyist test kits to dial in their levels:
To have stable nutrient levels, the goal is to have the same visual shade of color when using a nitrate test kit on your aquarium at any time of the week.
To do this, you need to start by having a stable method of dosing nutrients daily. By testing to see whether nutrients build up or deplete across the week, you will know whether your daily dosing rate is higher or lower than your tank's uptake rate of nutrients.
To do this, take measurements using the test kit across the week. Take the pictures in a fixed location and store the pictures on your phone or computer to use as color comparisons for readings across the week. If your nitrate tests show lighter colors at the end of the week compared to the first day of the week, it shows that your dosing rate is lower than your aquarium's uptake rate. In aquariums where the difference in uptake and dosing rates is small, the difference may only be seen by comparing the colors on the first and last days of the week. In aquariums where the daily dosing rates differ significantly from the uptake rates of the aquarium, a color difference may be seen by mid week.
A dropping nitrate test reading at the end of the week indicates that daily additions of nitrogen are less than what the aquarium uptake rate is. In such a scenario, you should increase your daily dosing slightly to maintain stable levels. For slight differences in color (less than 5ppm), you increase your dosage by just 0.5ppm Nitrate per day. For color differences larger than 10ppm, try increasing it by 1ppm Nitrate per day.
A rising nitrate test reading at the end of the week indicates that daily additions of nitrogen are more than what the aquarium uptake rate is. In such a scenario, you should decrease your daily dosing slightly to maintain stable levels. For slight differences in color (less than 5ppm), you decrease your dosage by just 0.5ppm Nitrate per day. For color differences larger than 10ppm, try decreasing it by 1ppm Nitrate per day.
If you are using the EI dosing approach, water change day is used to reset nutrient levels. One way to hit your target saturation level on the spot without the use of test kits is to change 100% of your water and dose exactly the amount of ppm in nutrients you want. i.e. 100% water change, dose 15ppm NO3, boomz, guaranteed 15ppm of NO3 in the water column.
If you are doing say a 50% water change, and your water has 20ppm of nitrates before the water change, you would want to dose back 10ppm of nitrates back to keep nutrient levels stable at 20ppm. If your target level is 15ppm of nitrates instead, then after a 50% water change (removing 10ppm from 20ppm), you will need to dose back 5ppm of nitrates instead. Over the long run, the goal should be to keep levels the same before/after water changes.
If instead you are using the zero bound approach to nutrient dosing, then the goal is to just keep nitrates at 5ppm and below after water changes. If nutrients levels have spiked significantly during the week, say it is at 10ppm now, then just do a larger water change (80-100%).
31 replies
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2392 views
I've been consuming tons of information from this amazing forum and decided its time to start my own journal.
One, to get constructive criticism/suggestions on how to improve which would be most welcome and two, just to show other approaches to starting a new tank as everyone thinks a bit differently and to see other peoples perspective.
I only started using pressurised CO2 about 18 months ago so haven't been in the hobby that long.
The first pic below was of said attempt starting with CO2. The other reason for showing that tank is I'm using the same physical tank and also starting off the new setup with plants from that tank.
Speaking of the tank, as you will see in the first pic of the new build it is an old second hand rimmed tank with less than stellar glass. In my list of planned upgrades one of them will be to order a low iron rimless tank so I can actually appreciate what's inside it. I can never get a photo to show a clear shot of the tank. Its not a great tank but it is definitely clearer than what the photos show. I think the camera really highlights how crappy the glass is lol.
No direct inspiration here apart from including a reasonable amount of hardscape and probably having a more nature style tank, so not so formal.
I've had a large piece of driftwood hanging around that I've wanted to use in a scape. I've used it previously in a larger tank but was a fish only tank. I do know after a year submerged (tied down) it still went straight to the top when released/untied so is basically unsinkable. Not sure of the type of wood though.
I also cut it in half depth wise as it was too large for a 4 foot tank.
After trying to glue it to rocks around it etc I filled the tank...and of course all went to hell. The driftwood wanted to get to the surface so bad it broke away from the glue LOL. So I had to start the scape with a large rock sitting on it and the driftwood in a different position from where it started. Temporary at first but now I plan to cover the rock with epiphytes etc so it should be ok eventually, just not so much right now. One of those it is what it is. I'm only playing around here anyways.
I'll also say, as per the heading of this journal, I'm treating this as an experimental tank, not even close to a show tank. I'll purchase a nice tank when I think I'm at a level where I deserve to bring it justice so not yet. Hopefully this tank will bring me a long way towards that point.
I've only previously used organic soil capped with sand (so the classic dirted tank). That provides good growth for around 6 months or so but if a lot of the organics start rising up and leaching into the water column, its not such a great setup for high tech tanks. Ask how I know!
I've never used aqua soil. I would like to try one day but for now decided to skip that and go straight to inert. Encouraged purely by some of you on here that have been using BDBS. That is what I would like to have used but not readily available in Aus so I'm using pool filter sand for this rendition.
Apologies for the rambling, onto the details.
Started around 5th January, did the full changeover from the old setup
Tank size:
Filter
Wave maker / power head
- Aqua One 8000 reef sim (apart from obviously to help circulation - was mainly put in here to help with the CO2 distribution - so is now situated at the opposite end of the tank to the filter outlet/inlet) Flow from 528 G/H to 2113 G/H. Have it on the lowest setting and probably still too strong
CO2
Water
- Tap (GH 7 KH 6), PH is around 7.6-7.8 out of the tank - at the moment
Substrate
- Pool filter sand only
Lighting
Initial plant list (as mentioned just selecting some from previous iteration of this tank)
I've deliberately not used what i call starter plants to kick it off as I find they can take over easily in a high tech tank, then you have to gradually rip them all out. I know a higher risk of more algae without them but lets go!
Ferts
Water change
- Currently around 55% weekly (I will be refining this a bit more too. I have a TDS meter now so will be working out exact water change volume using Rocco's TDS method which will also help with refining the fert dosing)
Current fish list
I plan to gradually increase the rainbow collection a bit too over time. Love the Boseman's
Other miscellaneous stuff
Upgrades planned
Ferts uptake and adjusting over time:
My initial aim is to try and avoid the infamous diatom stage by using a slightly reduced light schedule and ferts to start the tank.
First impressions for me is the driftwood is too large for this tank but it is a different piece so will persevere whilst in this tank.
Anyways the pic of the tank before I pulled it down;
Start of the new scape.
You can really see the crappy condition of the tank here with the scratches, water stains etc. I'm not too bothered though. It will make me more look forward when I eventually get a nice tank.
Just after filling up and initial planting. You can see the big heavy rock on the right. Without it, the driftwood shoots all over the place.
Noting that entire lot of MC melted soon after this, it wasn't in the best condition when it started though. Hoping it will eventually start up again. I'm patient, uhmm kind of!
One, to get constructive criticism/suggestions on how to improve which would be most welcome and two, just to show other approaches to starting a new tank as everyone thinks a bit differently and to see other peoples perspective.
I only started using pressurised CO2 about 18 months ago so haven't been in the hobby that long.
The first pic below was of said attempt starting with CO2. The other reason for showing that tank is I'm using the same physical tank and also starting off the new setup with plants from that tank.
Speaking of the tank, as you will see in the first pic of the new build it is an old second hand rimmed tank with less than stellar glass. In my list of planned upgrades one of them will be to order a low iron rimless tank so I can actually appreciate what's inside it. I can never get a photo to show a clear shot of the tank. Its not a great tank but it is definitely clearer than what the photos show. I think the camera really highlights how crappy the glass is lol.
No direct inspiration here apart from including a reasonable amount of hardscape and probably having a more nature style tank, so not so formal.
I've had a large piece of driftwood hanging around that I've wanted to use in a scape. I've used it previously in a larger tank but was a fish only tank. I do know after a year submerged (tied down) it still went straight to the top when released/untied so is basically unsinkable. Not sure of the type of wood though.
I also cut it in half depth wise as it was too large for a 4 foot tank.
After trying to glue it to rocks around it etc I filled the tank...and of course all went to hell. The driftwood wanted to get to the surface so bad it broke away from the glue LOL. So I had to start the scape with a large rock sitting on it and the driftwood in a different position from where it started. Temporary at first but now I plan to cover the rock with epiphytes etc so it should be ok eventually, just not so much right now. One of those it is what it is. I'm only playing around here anyways.
I'll also say, as per the heading of this journal, I'm treating this as an experimental tank, not even close to a show tank. I'll purchase a nice tank when I think I'm at a level where I deserve to bring it justice so not yet. Hopefully this tank will bring me a long way towards that point.
I've only previously used organic soil capped with sand (so the classic dirted tank). That provides good growth for around 6 months or so but if a lot of the organics start rising up and leaching into the water column, its not such a great setup for high tech tanks. Ask how I know!
I've never used aqua soil. I would like to try one day but for now decided to skip that and go straight to inert. Encouraged purely by some of you on here that have been using BDBS. That is what I would like to have used but not readily available in Aus so I'm using pool filter sand for this rendition.
Apologies for the rambling, onto the details.
Started around 5th January, did the full changeover from the old setup
Tank size:
- 122 cm x 47 cm deep x 45 cm high (uhmm so in imperial 48" x 18.5" x 17.5")
- Litres/gallons - 258 litres / 68 Gallons
Filter
- Just what I have on hand and had been using in the tank (Aqua One Nautilus 1100) so around 290 G/H so of course in reality a lot less than that. Only filled mainly with sponges though, limited the bio media.
- I have a perfectly working FX5 sitting in the shed gathering dust but I think too powerful for this size tank. That connected to a Yugang reactor though and one inch lily pipes could be a good combo. Will have to think about that for the future.
Wave maker / power head
- Aqua One 8000 reef sim (apart from obviously to help circulation - was mainly put in here to help with the CO2 distribution - so is now situated at the opposite end of the tank to the filter outlet/inlet) Flow from 528 G/H to 2113 G/H. Have it on the lowest setting and probably still too strong
CO2
- Aqualabs Pro dual stage regulator (recently added this, replacing a cheap chinese one from ebay - about 6 times the cost!)
- Aqualabs inline diffuser
- Gets to around 45 ppm but I need to do some more refined testing ( I only have the JBL CO2 kit but seems to be working ok)
- CO2 starts 3.5 hours before lights start and 4 hours before lights build up to their set level.
Water
- Tap (GH 7 KH 6), PH is around 7.6-7.8 out of the tank - at the moment
Substrate
- Pool filter sand only
Lighting
- Week Aqua L1200 (using Red preset at R - 64%, G - 71% B - 44% and UV - 90%) TBH not sure the UV light does much but it is what it is.
- So the lights aren't on that high, I started off the tank even lower but crept it up to what it is now.
Initial plant list (as mentioned just selecting some from previous iteration of this tank)
- MC as the front carpet
- Hygrophila corymbosa (restricted this quite a bit as it grows too fast with direct CO2 access) so hidden in the opposite corner to CO2 lol
- One amazon sword - I wanted to keep one in here to prove you don't need rich substrate
- Crypt wendtii brown - similar to above
- Ludwigia repens
- Helanthium bolivianum 'Quadricostatus (I think thats what it is or similar. produces runners like nothing on earth but a nice looking plant. Thats the one in the back right corner in the first photo of the new setup)
- AR Mini
- Hydrocotyle tripartite mini
- Limnophila Aromatica
I've deliberately not used what i call starter plants to kick it off as I find they can take over easily in a high tech tank, then you have to gradually rip them all out. I know a higher risk of more algae without them but lets go!
Ferts
- DIY Macros and micro mix - Rexolin APN (dosed for water tank volume)
- Started 9/2/20 now 10/2.5/20 (yes I know quite low for an inert substrate compared to most and will gradually increase this in time)
- Front load around 50% Macros, then the rest dosed throughout the week - only just started this method to try and limit the swings during the week
- Micros dose evenly throughout the week adding up to 0.45 fe / week
Water change
- Currently around 55% weekly (I will be refining this a bit more too. I have a TDS meter now so will be working out exact water change volume using Rocco's TDS method which will also help with refining the fert dosing)
Current fish list
- Around maybe 15 Rummy nose
- 4 SAE's
- Couple of oto's
- 4 Corys
- 6 Crimson spotted Rainbows ( i received these in a swap, plants for rainbows )
I plan to gradually increase the rainbow collection a bit too over time. Love the Boseman's
Other miscellaneous stuff
- Fluval SK400 surface skimmer (seemed like a little toy when I first set it up but does an ok job actually)
- Aqualabs pro skim lily pipes, and added quick release to the filter hosing to get to these easily. They are glass.
- Inkbird wifi heater control
Upgrades planned
- RO/DI - Just received but need a few more bits and pieces then I'll introduce the RO water over a 4 week period (25/50/75/100). I plan to remineralise to around 5dGH (4:1 for CA:MG), wont be adding any dKH, again following you guys lead here. I think this will be a huge upgrade as my tap water is sourced from a creek and is inconsistent. PH varies between 7 and 8 and KH has risen from 4 to 6 over the last few months.
- CO2 reactor - Looking at the Yugang of course. This will also I think make a big difference compared to inline diffusers. When setting up the tank I put in some work to try and determine the best flow to maximise CO2 distribution but still think I haven't got it right.
- New tank - as mentioned above
- Possible auto fert doser for the next tank
Ferts uptake and adjusting over time:
- The NO3 seems to provide a consistent 10 ppm before each water change which is the same amount I'm dosing now. Coincidence or is it only using what's readily available in the system. I know with slower growing plants and not a huge plant mass the uptake is obviously less.
- PO4 - similar story, test (which I'm not sure how accurate it is) seems to provide a consistent result of 2 ppm, again similar to what I have been dosing.
- I'll gradually increase both and see where I can find the sweet spot but may wait mainly till after the RO/DI is running.
My initial aim is to try and avoid the infamous diatom stage by using a slightly reduced light schedule and ferts to start the tank.
First impressions for me is the driftwood is too large for this tank but it is a different piece so will persevere whilst in this tank.
Anyways the pic of the tank before I pulled it down;
Start of the new scape.
You can really see the crappy condition of the tank here with the scratches, water stains etc. I'm not too bothered though. It will make me more look forward when I eventually get a nice tank.
Just after filling up and initial planting. You can see the big heavy rock on the right. Without it, the driftwood shoots all over the place.
Noting that entire lot of MC melted soon after this, it wasn't in the best condition when it started though. Hoping it will eventually start up again. I'm patient, uhmm kind of!
36 replies
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2146 views
I'm on the hunt for a stand mounted light stand for my 120p + Hyperspot L. I've found a few options, but nothing spectacular. I figured I'd ask for info/ideas before I consider startting down the DIY route with some conduit type pipe. Ultimately, I can't bring myself to mount the light from the celling only for the cord to dangle down, but based on what I'm [not] finding, I might give in. I could in theory 3d print something to maybe obscure the cord, so that may be my ultimate fall back if this turns out to be a dead end.
WeekAqua - Mounts behind the tank, which would not be my first choice, but I would be willing to settle on it. I'm not finding anyone with it in stock and it's $300 landed from Alibaba.
ADA Solar - More the look I'm going for, but they're not intended to be used with a single light for a 120p, so I'd need 2, which is noted as discontinued (and $600 for a light stand sounds nuts)
ADA Solar Stand Option 2 - $729 + shipping just seems outrageous, even if it were in stock!
Liti Light Stand - Definitely the closest to the look I had in my mind. Seeing this made me wonder if a single 10 foot 1/2 tube of aluminum conduit could be bent in the same fashion of the multiple pieces of this stand (bending inspiration video here).
WeekAqua - Mounts behind the tank, which would not be my first choice, but I would be willing to settle on it. I'm not finding anyone with it in stock and it's $300 landed from Alibaba.
ADA Solar - More the look I'm going for, but they're not intended to be used with a single light for a 120p, so I'd need 2, which is noted as discontinued (and $600 for a light stand sounds nuts)
ADA Solar Stand Option 2 - $729 + shipping just seems outrageous, even if it were in stock!
Liti Light Stand - Definitely the closest to the look I had in my mind. Seeing this made me wonder if a single 10 foot 1/2 tube of aluminum conduit could be bent in the same fashion of the multiple pieces of this stand (bending inspiration video here).
11 replies
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118 views
Hi all
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
My Cambomba sometimes develops these roots from the nodes.
Rotala H'ra does it too, but not as aggressively as the Cambomba.
Any ideas why this happens?
13 replies
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170 views
Bought a bag off Amazon. $15 for like 400ml. 2 big bags worth.
Added it to tank.
Tds spiking everyday.
From 150 to 400 tds after a week.
Thought substrate was just leeching.
I eventually just soaked the bag in RO water for a few days until the tds stopped spiking so much. Maybe I should just soak it in bleach first before use?
Added it to tank.
Tds spiking everyday.
From 150 to 400 tds after a week.
Thought substrate was just leeching.
I eventually just soaked the bag in RO water for a few days until the tds stopped spiking so much. Maybe I should just soak it in bleach first before use?
5 replies
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59 views
Journal UNS 60S Pond Scape
After a bit of hiatus from the hobby, I'm jumping back in with a high-tech UNS 60S as a pond type scape. Normally one would have a nice set of images next with the initial setup. Currently mine is an empty tank and shelves of parts and equipment. I'm determined to take it slow, research each bit and have everything on hand before adding water.
I've found the in the past ~20 years there has been quite a lot of change in the hobby. So many more products available, my last high-tech tanks was T5's and Metal Halides. My have things changed.
My Plan
Lighting
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 Light Shade /w Mirror
Chihiros WRBG II Pro LED Light Hanging Kit
Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand)
Oase Shutoff Valve 16/22 mm - x 2
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 16/22 mm
Stainless Steel 16/22 to 12/16 reducer
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 12/16 mm
FZone Mini Lily Pipes w/ Skimmer
I found that to use Lily pipes that fit this tank size, I'll need to use something small, hence the reduction in tubing size.
CO2 Art Dual Stage Regulator /w Bubble Counter and Solenoid
FZone CO2 Proof Line
CO2 Check Valve
NilocG CO2 Drop Checker /w Solution
Timer
Qanvee M2 Inline CO2 Diffuser
Lucked out with CO2, found someone on Facebook Marketplace selling 2 complete CO2 systems. With full tanks, for less than the price of a new CO2 Art Regulator. Snapped them both up.
Wood - Dragon Wood
Substrate
APT S - Base layer
UNS ControBase 2L
APT Jazz Caps
UNS ControSoil Black Fine 10L
UNS Mojave Extra Fine 8L- Open areas
UNS Sequoia 3L - Accent Rocks
Hygrophila pinnatifida
Ceratopteris thalictroides
Ludwigia palustris var Super Red
Under Wood and Rock
Cryptocoryne parva var Mini
Bucephalandra (assorted varieties)
On Rock at Water Line
Micranthemum callitrichoides var Cuba
Left and Right Sides in Sand
Eleocharis acicularis var Mini
Hydrocotyle verticillata
Floaters
Red Root Floater
Shrimp
Pygmy Cory
Otocinclus
Exotic Pleco
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish
Badis? Once plants grow in
Goby
Snails
That's the plan.
Started collecting bits in April, then found out I'd have to be in Dallas for most of May for some family matters. While in Dallas, Aquashella was in town along with an aquascaping demo of an LFS, Fish Gallery, by MJ Aquascaping of YouTube fame. Being my plan is based on the Guppy tank MJ created, I could not miss this opportunity. Learned a lot and had the opportunity to ask MJ a lot of questions.
My intention is to Dark Start, then plant.
I'm held up by the need of one part. The Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand) base is too wide for this tank. In need of a 3 mm spacer. My neighbor, a metal shop, made me one out of ABS plastic. It works perfectly, only they made only one. I need two. My fault for not being clearer. I'll hit them up once they are back in the shop after the weekend.
More to come...
I've found the in the past ~20 years there has been quite a lot of change in the hobby. So many more products available, my last high-tech tanks was T5's and Metal Halides. My have things changed.
My Plan
Tank /Stand
UNS 60SLighting
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 Light Shade /w Mirror
Chihiros WRBG II Pro LED Light Hanging Kit
Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand)
Filtration
Oase BioMaster 2 Thermo 250Oase Shutoff Valve 16/22 mm - x 2
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 16/22 mm
Stainless Steel 16/22 to 12/16 reducer
FZone 3M Grey Tubing 12/16 mm
FZone Mini Lily Pipes w/ Skimmer
I found that to use Lily pipes that fit this tank size, I'll need to use something small, hence the reduction in tubing size.
CO2
5 LB CO2 TankCO2 Art Dual Stage Regulator /w Bubble Counter and Solenoid
FZone CO2 Proof Line
CO2 Check Valve
NilocG CO2 Drop Checker /w Solution
Timer
Qanvee M2 Inline CO2 Diffuser
Lucked out with CO2, found someone on Facebook Marketplace selling 2 complete CO2 systems. With full tanks, for less than the price of a new CO2 Art Regulator. Snapped them both up.
Hardscape
Rock - Black Lava RockWood - Dragon Wood
Substrate
APT S - Base layer
UNS ControBase 2L
APT Jazz Caps
UNS ControSoil Black Fine 10L
UNS Mojave Extra Fine 8L- Open areas
UNS Sequoia 3L - Accent Rocks
Plants
Rear MiddleHygrophila pinnatifida
Ceratopteris thalictroides
Ludwigia palustris var Super Red
Under Wood and Rock
Cryptocoryne parva var Mini
Bucephalandra (assorted varieties)
On Rock at Water Line
Micranthemum callitrichoides var Cuba
Left and Right Sides in Sand
Eleocharis acicularis var Mini
Hydrocotyle verticillata
Floaters
Red Root Floater
Livestock
Wish List: at this time, nothing is set in stoneShrimp
Pygmy Cory
Otocinclus
Exotic Pleco
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish
Badis? Once plants grow in
Goby
Snails
That's the plan.
Started collecting bits in April, then found out I'd have to be in Dallas for most of May for some family matters. While in Dallas, Aquashella was in town along with an aquascaping demo of an LFS, Fish Gallery, by MJ Aquascaping of YouTube fame. Being my plan is based on the Guppy tank MJ created, I could not miss this opportunity. Learned a lot and had the opportunity to ask MJ a lot of questions.
My intention is to Dark Start, then plant.
I'm held up by the need of one part. The Week Aqua Arm Stand /Black (L Stand) base is too wide for this tank. In need of a 3 mm spacer. My neighbor, a metal shop, made me one out of ABS plastic. It works perfectly, only they made only one. I need two. My fault for not being clearer. I'll hit them up once they are back in the shop after the weekend.
More to come...
86 replies
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7083 views
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
1979 replies
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47385 views
Journal Mini Yugang - My experience
This journal documents my thought process and design decisions for building mini yugang reactors for tanks below 20 gallons/60P.
If this is your first time learning about a yugang reactor, head over to this article:
Yugang CO2 Reactor - A Guide
One of the challenges with the yugang reactor is that they are tough to build for smaller tanks due to material availability. But that issue was solved in this thread below:
Yugang Reactors for Smaller Tanks
After reading the thread above, I thought that the PC cooling reservoir would be a great idea for three reasons:
Challenges with the mini yugang and how to resolve them:
I hope the reader will find my experience helpful in designing their own mini yugang. Thank you for reading.
If this is your first time learning about a yugang reactor, head over to this article:
Yugang CO2 Reactor - A Guide
One of the challenges with the yugang reactor is that they are tough to build for smaller tanks due to material availability. But that issue was solved in this thread below:
Yugang Reactors for Smaller Tanks
After reading the thread above, I thought that the PC cooling reservoir would be a great idea for three reasons:
- You will be able to disassemble it for cleanup
- It’s see-through, so you can adjust flow as required, as the flow will decrease over time from filter clog-up. This is sort of important for mini yugangs as significant flow reductions could lead to a slower rate of pH drop. This is discussed in detail later in the journal.
- Its outflow is off-centre and the cylinder is rotatable as shown in the photo below, thus you can increase or decrease pH drop based on your tank size. This feature is particularly important as the PC cooling reservoirs come in fixed sizes, so the only real way to adjust pH drop is by rotating the cylinder to increase or decrease CO2 absorption.
Challenges with the mini yugang and how to resolve them:
- Low volume: I have used a 310 mm PC cooling reservoir, with a usable diameter of 40mm. This means that during operation at full capacity the volume of water in the reactor is pretty low; about 185ml. This is a little problematic as the low mass flow rate requirement of the mini yugang coupled with the low volume means that only a small amount of water gets injected with CO2 at any point in time. This leads to the pH drop being very slow for a tank size of 20 gallons. I had designed my yugang for a pH drop of 1.4 and it takes me about 5-6 hours to achieve this. The way to resolve this issue would be by using a reactor with a great length (to be able to afford larger mass flow rates) and a larger volume, but this would mean that you would have a tough time running the reactor in overflow mode as the CO2 gas pocket would have to be very small due to the bigger reactor size. The other solution is to start injecting early like I do. So to conclude, the “rate of pH drop” is dependent on reactor volume, mass flow rate and the size of the fish tank. So keep this in mind if you’re trying to use a mini yugang for tanks bigger than 20 gallons.
- Usually small volumes of air being purged into the reactor isn’t an issue as yugang points out in his article but if the filter is purging out massive bubbles of air frequently then this most certainly will affect reactor operation. If you own one of the older biomasters one of the issues you’d encounter is the filter purging air into the reactor. This happens in two cases; if you don’t have a bypass or if the tee joint at the bypass is oriented incorrectly. This is why my suggestion would be to install a bypass, as it just gives you more control over the situation. So, what is then the correct tee joint orientation? If you look at the photo below, you’ll see how the bull head of the tee joint is pointing upwards against gravity and that the bypass is connected to the bull head while the reactor inflow is connected to the parallel down-flow. This is key because the bypass being connected to the upwards facing bull head ensures that any bubbles being purged from the filter is not entering the reactor; this happens as bubbles have an affinity to move upwards. In this case, the filter purges air and the bubbles shoot straight into the bypass and out into the tank without entering the reactor and disrupting reactor performance.
I hope the reader will find my experience helpful in designing their own mini yugang. Thank you for reading.
4 replies
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113 views
Started a new tank with the idea of show casing Lagenandra meeboldii which I have not showcased before. Wanted to feature Hygrophila lower Hlaingbwe, but I removed it later as I think it would be too large for this tank.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
New substrate, new filter, squeezed filter mulm from the other matured tank, then ran the tank one week day before planting. 100% water change after planting, then 100% water change every other day since then. Dosing 1ml APT3 after water change day, and remineralizing to 5dGH using APT Sky. Trying out the low water column dosing approach for the initial period.
Filter: Oase 250
Lights: Week aqua a430 80%
Substrate: APT Feast
Was going to Journal about startup issues, however, it seems like the tank has already stabilized, skipping diatoms and green dust phase.
Freshly planted for a couple of days:
13/2/2026
Replanted the tops for Myriophyllum roraima, Cut and replanted Rotala blood red to begin building up the bush form. Trimmed old leaves
Foreground seems a bit blocky for now, so I think I'lll move stuff round again. Probably when the BV grows out some more.
Pic on 23/2/2026
Readings at this stage:
Potassium: 2.3ppm
Ammonia: 0.1ppm
reduce water changes to 2 times a week.
81 replies
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5124 views
Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
23 replies
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877 views
I picked up a UNS 45T secondhand and decided to set up a high tech, NA-inspired triangular layout. Aiming to keep this relatively low maintenance.
For the cabinet, I ordered a SUNDSO cabinet from IKEA. It's a stylish black indoor-outdoor cabinet made of galvanized steel but extremely flimsy, with all of the panels warping at the slightest touch. I built a simple lumber frame from 2x2s and 1/4" plywood to go inside. Although it's not tied into the cabinet, the frame measurements have so little tolerance that it is solid and reinforces the cabinet perfectly with no torquing or lateral movements. This cabinet is ideal because the shelving and bottom panels can be omitted from the installation without compromising the assembly of the walls, so I was able to insert the lumber frame inside and transfer all of the load directly onto the floor. The other major benefit of this cabinet was the adjustable feet, which made it easy to achieve perfect contact between the top of the lumber frame and the inside of the cabinet. Essentially, the cabinet acts as an aesthetic shell that fits over a much more structurally sound stand. The only other modification made was to drill holes in the side and back panels for plumbing and electrical wiring. The sharp holes were fitted with 3D printed grommets.
Equipment:
Cabinet and equipment close-up
Layout
The goal is a triangular peninsula layout with lots of negative space. In the past I have done much more hardscape-heavy layouts with way too many plant species, so I'm trying a slightly more minimalist feel with mostly epiphytes and mosses.
Final layout. Spiderwood and some stone whose name I can't remember. The majority were very geometric and cuboid, so what you see are the most organic looking pieces I could find in the bin. Substrate is Fluval Stratum and UNS Controsoil which will be added after planting.
Plant list, if sourcing works out
Inspiration
Heavily inspired by this aquascape by Rachel Ellis for Horizon Aquatics.
Other inspiration comes from JJ Aquarium
The tank is currently filled and in a dark start with some seeded media while we wait for the light to arrive. Chihiros halts business during the entire month of Chinese New Year so it hasn't shipped yet.
For the cabinet, I ordered a SUNDSO cabinet from IKEA. It's a stylish black indoor-outdoor cabinet made of galvanized steel but extremely flimsy, with all of the panels warping at the slightest touch. I built a simple lumber frame from 2x2s and 1/4" plywood to go inside. Although it's not tied into the cabinet, the frame measurements have so little tolerance that it is solid and reinforces the cabinet perfectly with no torquing or lateral movements. This cabinet is ideal because the shelving and bottom panels can be omitted from the installation without compromising the assembly of the walls, so I was able to insert the lumber frame inside and transfer all of the load directly onto the floor. The other major benefit of this cabinet was the adjustable feet, which made it easy to achieve perfect contact between the top of the lumber frame and the inside of the cabinet. Essentially, the cabinet acts as an aesthetic shell that fits over a much more structurally sound stand. The only other modification made was to drill holes in the side and back panels for plumbing and electrical wiring. The sharp holes were fitted with 3D printed grommets.
Equipment:
- Tank: UNS 45T
- Filtration: Oase Filtosmart Thermo 100, FZone stainless steel inlet/outlet pipes with surface skimmer
- Lighting: Chihiros WRGB II 10th Edition 45cm
- CO2: 5 lb cylinder, FZone budget regulator, FZone inline CO2 diffuser
Cabinet and equipment close-up
Layout
The goal is a triangular peninsula layout with lots of negative space. In the past I have done much more hardscape-heavy layouts with way too many plant species, so I'm trying a slightly more minimalist feel with mostly epiphytes and mosses.
Final layout. Spiderwood and some stone whose name I can't remember. The majority were very geometric and cuboid, so what you see are the most organic looking pieces I could find in the bin. Substrate is Fluval Stratum and UNS Controsoil which will be added after planting.
Plant list, if sourcing works out
- Java fern trident
- Ludwigia arcuata
- S. repens
- Hydrocotyle japan
- Buce lamandau mini purple + other mixed buce
- Anubias nana petite
- Riccardia chamedryfolia
- Christmas or weeping moss
Inspiration
Heavily inspired by this aquascape by Rachel Ellis for Horizon Aquatics.
Other inspiration comes from JJ Aquarium
The tank is currently filled and in a dark start with some seeded media while we wait for the light to arrive. Chihiros halts business during the entire month of Chinese New Year so it hasn't shipped yet.
69 replies
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4079 views