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Hello Welcome, alexamorgan
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @alexamorgan!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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Rockstar
I've done some reading on the subject of reusing aquasoil. There are videos showing fully removing the soil, cleaning it to remove all old detritus, and then even baking it. @Dennis Wong (2hr Aquarist) discusses regular replenishing of depleted aquasoil but I didn't see an article on a complete new scape using old soil. It seems to me that once you have removed all hardscape and livestock from a tank, you could remove a partial amount of soil, stir up what is remaining quite well while also doing a deep vacuum to remove as much detritus as possible, and then add in fresh soil to desired substrate level. In theory this would leave a substantial amount of beneficial bacteria in the tank, and if you're also reusing biomedia, the tank would cycle in very short time.
I was about to start the next couple new tanks with new soil but have paused to consider these options. I currently have 3 scapes that I'll be breaking down, but I can break down one tank at a time now, clean the soil in the tank as I described and, move the soil to the new tank (along with the additional new soil). The catch is that I would still have to do the scaping either underwater, or holding off filling with water for the extended time while I place hardscape, so I don't know how well live bacteria in the old soil would handle that.
Curious to hear other's thoughts, especially if you've actually done this.
I was about to start the next couple new tanks with new soil but have paused to consider these options. I currently have 3 scapes that I'll be breaking down, but I can break down one tank at a time now, clean the soil in the tank as I described and, move the soil to the new tank (along with the additional new soil). The catch is that I would still have to do the scaping either underwater, or holding off filling with water for the extended time while I place hardscape, so I don't know how well live bacteria in the old soil would handle that.
Curious to hear other's thoughts, especially if you've actually done this.
3 Replies
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57 views
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I Donated 2026
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Hello Welcome, KJMog
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @KJMog!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
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There are lots of baby fish in my 20 gallon. They are from two different broods. The first had 2 grow up and the second has about 8. It is not certain which fish they are, but based on tail fin structure I am confident they are platys. Now the funny thing is, I am fairly certain my platys are all female. This is based on a knowledgeable guy at the LFS and my research into distinguishing between the two sexes. I have had the platys for less than 3 months, so they must have been getting it on in the fish store.
Anyways, I feel I am at my max bioload for my 20g tank and definitely don’t need one of the babies being a male and reaching sexual maturity. I have always had a kind heart for animals and can’t bring myself to eliminate them. Soooooo…….
Excuse for me to get another tank. This will be a temporary housing until they get old enough for me to sell or give away. Also lets me practice a little more aquascaping.
I started searching for smaller tanks on Prime Day, but ended up finding a great deal on Waterbox Clear Mini 6. So good I bought 2. My coral frag tank is getting an upgrade too! The Fzone nano light was on sale, and I thought for $60 it is worth a try. I set it up today. I really like the light. Very powerful, too powerful for my current needs. Very adjustable using a basic user friendly app.
This is my tentative hardscape. Suggestions and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Plants will be ready next week. I am using a few new ones and a few from my 20g. The plan is to make this heavily planted so that there will be very little maintenance and eventually only monthly water changes (if any). It will have a tiny nicrew HOB filter, but that is mainly for a little water movement.
Things should start to come together quickly over the next week.
Anyways, I feel I am at my max bioload for my 20g tank and definitely don’t need one of the babies being a male and reaching sexual maturity. I have always had a kind heart for animals and can’t bring myself to eliminate them. Soooooo…….
Excuse for me to get another tank. This will be a temporary housing until they get old enough for me to sell or give away. Also lets me practice a little more aquascaping.
I started searching for smaller tanks on Prime Day, but ended up finding a great deal on Waterbox Clear Mini 6. So good I bought 2. My coral frag tank is getting an upgrade too! The Fzone nano light was on sale, and I thought for $60 it is worth a try. I set it up today. I really like the light. Very powerful, too powerful for my current needs. Very adjustable using a basic user friendly app.
This is my tentative hardscape. Suggestions and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Plants will be ready next week. I am using a few new ones and a few from my 20g. The plan is to make this heavily planted so that there will be very little maintenance and eventually only monthly water changes (if any). It will have a tiny nicrew HOB filter, but that is mainly for a little water movement.
Things should start to come together quickly over the next week.
11 Replies
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199 views
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I Donated 2026
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This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
2053 Replies
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76729 views
I’m considering adding an ATO to my UNS 60U mainly to keep the water level consistent from evaporation, especially when I’m away
I’ve narrowed it down to a few options like the Tunze Osmolator 3 Nano, XP Aqua Duetto², and FZONE QST2.0, but I’m open to other recommendations
My biggest concern is reliability and overfill protection. Since this is a relatively small tank, it wouldn’t take much of a sensor malfunction or pump running too long to raise the water level significantly. I’d really prefer something with a backup/failsafe or some type of protection that shuts the pump down if the primary sensor fails
I’m also trying to keep the equipment inside the tank as small and unobtrusive as possible. That’s one reason I’m hesitant about the Tunze Nano. I trust the brand, but the sensor assembly looks pretty bulky for a smaller rimless planted tank
For those actually running an ATO on a planted/freshwater tank:
What system are you using, how long have you had it, and have you ever had it overfill, fail to top off, or have sensor issues?
I’m especially interested in anyone who has used one of these long enough that they’d actually trust it while away on vacation
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168 views
Rockstar
Journal 22 gallon long bookshelf
Time to start a new thread.
I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.
90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.
Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.
I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.
I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.
90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.
Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.
I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.
307 Replies
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34787 views
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Rockstar
Article Contributor
Skip to the actual journal here.
I'm known here for high tech, high nutrient, inert substrate scapes -- but I also love NO tech, rich substrate scapes, too!
This thread is three-sided:
But there is a new modern kind of fish bowl, one where plants, substrate, bacteria, water changes, and proper inhabitant selection all work together to create healthy, mini ecosystem-worlds in our homes:
My first bowl attempt in 2020
My second bowl, a true "no tech" in 2021
My third bowl scape (no tech) in 2023, and by far my favorite and most successful!
The point is, these are smaller, affordable, beautiful little worlds of light to enliven our living spaces and create art, nature, and beauty -- often with very little maintenance and upkeep besides a partial water change and feeding the fish.
quano_aqua on Insta
waterplantslover on insta
hanahiyori1112 on insta
Sono aqua pfm on Insta and on Youtube is one of the pioneers of this method, and
deserves a TON of credit for popularizing this technique across many Japanese communities!
kazuaki387 on insta
qball_aquatics on insta has many small bowl scapes.
Nanoscape on insta
syo_aqua_plants on insta follows the "Sono" method.
Aquadream in Vietnam on insta and on Youtube has TONS of no-tech bowl scapes.
Almost 20 bowls in his store/gallery. Lots of info on his youtube channel!
pokomama_medaka on insta
tinyecosystems_ on insta, also sells "kits" to make your own tiny ecosystem jars.
the_bettabowl_project on insta
MJ Aquascaping bowl on youtube, beautiful setup.
MJ Aquascaping vase on Youtube
MD Fishtanks on Youtube has done a few planted no tech bowls
aquashopuha on insta
jp72363 on insta
y0shi_n9 on Insta
kermitDE on Reddit
buiscape on insta has a tiny Fluval bowl scape with crabs!
nakayamachiyomi on insta
ichistarium on insta
chandan0616 on instagram
Few-Focus8050 on Reddit
KrishTheBaker on Reddit and on Youtube
@HardeeParty here on Scape Crunch
@bradquade here on Scape Crunch
10-gal bowl featured on Tank Tested on Youtube
And that's just the ones I have found over the last few years! I have no doubt there are many, many more out there.
I'll add to this thread as I find them, and would love it if you would, too!
I'm known here for high tech, high nutrient, inert substrate scapes -- but I also love NO tech, rich substrate scapes, too!
This thread is three-sided:
- To act as a journal for my new No-Tech bowl scape, and
- To act as a discussion board for no/low tech bowl scapes, and
- To collect and share accounts and examples of bowl scapes from around the world!
But there is a new modern kind of fish bowl, one where plants, substrate, bacteria, water changes, and proper inhabitant selection all work together to create healthy, mini ecosystem-worlds in our homes:
My first bowl attempt in 2020
My second bowl, a true "no tech" in 2021
My third bowl scape (no tech) in 2023, and by far my favorite and most successful!
What does No Tech mean?
In general, it means that these scapes have:- No Filter
- No Heater
- No Air Pump
- No Skimmer
- No CO2
- No Circulation
- A Light (usually low to medium-powered)
- A Substrate (inert, aquasoil, or sand-capped soil like Walstad method)
- Plants (usually quite low-tech plants, though a surprising number will thrive in this method!)
- Inhabitants (Since these bowls are usually between 2-12 gallons on average, this limits selection to nano fish, shrimp, and snails).
The point is, these are smaller, affordable, beautiful little worlds of light to enliven our living spaces and create art, nature, and beauty -- often with very little maintenance and upkeep besides a partial water change and feeding the fish.
Gallery and Links to bowl scapers:
quano_aqua on Insta
waterplantslover on insta
hanahiyori1112 on insta
Sono aqua pfm on Insta and on Youtube is one of the pioneers of this method, and
deserves a TON of credit for popularizing this technique across many Japanese communities!
kazuaki387 on insta
qball_aquatics on insta has many small bowl scapes.
Nanoscape on insta
syo_aqua_plants on insta follows the "Sono" method.
Aquadream in Vietnam on insta and on Youtube has TONS of no-tech bowl scapes.
Almost 20 bowls in his store/gallery. Lots of info on his youtube channel!
pokomama_medaka on insta
tinyecosystems_ on insta, also sells "kits" to make your own tiny ecosystem jars.
the_bettabowl_project on insta
MJ Aquascaping bowl on youtube, beautiful setup.
MJ Aquascaping vase on Youtube
MD Fishtanks on Youtube has done a few planted no tech bowls
aquashopuha on insta
jp72363 on insta
y0shi_n9 on Insta
kermitDE on Reddit
buiscape on insta has a tiny Fluval bowl scape with crabs!
nakayamachiyomi on insta
ichistarium on insta
chandan0616 on instagram
Few-Focus8050 on Reddit
KrishTheBaker on Reddit and on Youtube
@HardeeParty here on Scape Crunch
@bradquade here on Scape Crunch
10-gal bowl featured on Tank Tested on Youtube
And that's just the ones I have found over the last few years! I have no doubt there are many, many more out there.
I'll add to this thread as I find them, and would love it if you would, too!
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6137 views
I'm looking to switch ferts I have a 20g low tech and 40g high tech both currently getting a mix of apt 1 and 3. I'm wanting to switch to pps pro using the gla salts (cheaper and gets my foot in the door with the dry ferts) for both tanks, but I've seen some recommend against it for low tech, I have no issues dosing daily, actually prefer it, and if I understand correctly, its actually better for the tank as far as stable nutrient levels. My question is, can this be done? Is it really that much of an issue to go pps pro on a low tech? I really want 1 solution (i.e. macro micro mixes) for both problems (the two tanks (obviously they'll need their own amounts as for as dose size)). I'm limited to 20 gallons of clean water at a time (remineralized with apt sky plus to 6 GH since I have neos, amanos and snails) due to space constraints so I can either do weekly 25% changes on the tanks or 50% changes every other week. Any and all input is welcome. TIA 
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458 views
Hi all,
For around a year now, I started using RO water in my tank (5KH and 0-0,5KH). I've used CO2 for years now. With 0KH, this gives me a pH of ~5.5 during peak saturation of CO2. With my tap water (300ppm, KH 8, GH unknown), I used to have a pH of ~6.5 during peak saturation of CO2. The reason why I switched to RO was that I would have better succes with certain plant species. Though I believe that technically most of my plants can grow in harder water.
I've pretty much had aquariums my whole life and always had different types of snails in the tank: tons of Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS), different types of nerites etc. Pretty early in the proces when switching to RO I noticed the nerites weren't doing too well as they were losing parts of their shell. I tried different supplements from Mineral Junkie but soon realized I was fighting a lost cause and gave them my dad for his aquarium (with tap water). I've also noticed the MTS are starting to lose the tips of there shell and there numbers have declined. I feel I have underestimated the effect of low pH (low KH) on snails and thought I could just supplement and things would work out. I would be lying if I would say that the tank feels a bit more empty to me now, even though I have fish and shrimps.
To boost my GH to 5 I use:
Magnesium Sulfate Hepta.
Calcium Chloride Di.
Calcium Sulfate Di.
When people have there tanks at 0KH and ~5GH with CO2 at ~30ppm, does it essentially mean that these people don't have snails in their tanks?
For around a year now, I started using RO water in my tank (5KH and 0-0,5KH). I've used CO2 for years now. With 0KH, this gives me a pH of ~5.5 during peak saturation of CO2. With my tap water (300ppm, KH 8, GH unknown), I used to have a pH of ~6.5 during peak saturation of CO2. The reason why I switched to RO was that I would have better succes with certain plant species. Though I believe that technically most of my plants can grow in harder water.
I've pretty much had aquariums my whole life and always had different types of snails in the tank: tons of Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS), different types of nerites etc. Pretty early in the proces when switching to RO I noticed the nerites weren't doing too well as they were losing parts of their shell. I tried different supplements from Mineral Junkie but soon realized I was fighting a lost cause and gave them my dad for his aquarium (with tap water). I've also noticed the MTS are starting to lose the tips of there shell and there numbers have declined. I feel I have underestimated the effect of low pH (low KH) on snails and thought I could just supplement and things would work out. I would be lying if I would say that the tank feels a bit more empty to me now, even though I have fish and shrimps.
To boost my GH to 5 I use:
Magnesium Sulfate Hepta.
Calcium Chloride Di.
Calcium Sulfate Di.
When people have there tanks at 0KH and ~5GH with CO2 at ~30ppm, does it essentially mean that these people don't have snails in their tanks?
5 Replies
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99 views
I recently added a small adjustable powerhead/wavemaker that's set to constant flow mode to increase surface agitation, gas exchange, and overall circulation. The goal wasn't to reduce CO₂, but to use stronger gas exchange along with adequate injection to get CO₂ up quickly before lights-on and then reach a stable equilibrium instead of continuing to accumulate throughout the photoperiod
Big thanks to @Dennis Wong / 2Hr Aquarist for his articles explaining this approach. I've learned so much from them. It's completely changed how I look at CO₂ injection and surface agitation
For testing I'm using a freshly calibrated Apera PH60 for pH, Hanna Checktemp 1 for temperature, and the Hanna HI3818 CO₂ titration kit to check actual CO₂ concentration. CO₂ kicked on at 12 PM, lights came on at 3 PM, and CO₂ shut off at 8 PM
Tank/water parameters: UNS 60U, Controsoil, RO/DI remineralized with APT Sky, GH 5 to 6, KH 0. My best degassed pH reference is around 7.30, so I'm seeing roughly a 1.7 pH drop at plateau. With 0 KH the standard pH/KH chart doesn't apply, so I'm using the Hanna kit alongside pH to track the curve
Today's testing showed a really good trend. The tank was already at pH 5.60 by 2:30 PM, reached 5.59 at lights-on, and stayed essentially flat through 8 PM. Hanna measured approximately 44 ppm at lights-on and 44 to 45 ppm at the end of the injection period. Since I was essentially at plateau 30 minutes before lights-on, I now feel comfortable reducing my pre-light injection from 3 hours to 2½ hours and seeing if I can still reach the same level by lights-on
My original CO₂ target was around 40 ppm, but at this point I'm wondering if it's worth trying to make a microscopic needle-valve adjustment just to knock off ~4 ppm when the curve is this stable
Would you guys leave it around 44 ppm or bring it down slightly closer to 40?
There's no livestock yet, so I'm taking advantage of this time to get everything dialed in. Plants are doing great. Planned livestock is cardinal tetras, pygmy cories, Amano shrimp, and eventually Caridina, and I'm planning to start stoc
king next week
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432 views