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I know stainless isn't 100% impervious to rust, but I try to let my tools dry out after use and mine have a bit of rust.
I'm frustrated because.... you know.... we all want pretty tools.
I thought I had quality stuff, but now I'm not sure, or I didn't let them dry good a few times.
Do yours rust or do I have tools?

Curious as to what everyone is using for drop checker solution?
A premixed commercial solution? If so, are they all pretty much the same as each other or are some better than others?
Do you DIY a 4dkh solution and add bromothymol blue? If so what is your recipe?
Do you DIY your own but make it to a different dkh? I know some people go higher than 4 so the lime green is 40+ppm of CO2.

I am out of my DIY 4dkh solution that was made up so long ago I can’t remember when. Rather than just making more I thought I would see what others are doing.
Has anyone used a 2 drop checker system? I am thinking I may run a low dkh checker so it turns full yellow at 30ppm to give a floor reading and a higher dkh solution that turns green at 45ppm.

As I look at the topcis in the algae forum, it seems a lot of us battle this one.

1. Manual removal has mine back to minimal mostly in the crowns of a few plants and some spots on the substrate. I have an air stone running at night. It smells funky when I get close to the tank. I am taking it as a sign the emycin is working. What thinks you?

2. Something I read on using emycin said you must dose it at night. I think I saw it only in one place. Any ideas why someone might think that was the case? To me, antibiotics are going to work best when the algae is growing and active. That's how they work is by disrupting some process in the life cycle. My cyano contracts and almost disappears when the lights are off. Not a sign it is metabolically active. Am I missing something or is this just someone's questionable opinion?

3. I've increase aeration. I have lots of flow. I've manually removed most of it. I'm adding emycin. I try to keep my NO3 around 15. I'm going to test it before my weekly water change to make sure it isn't bottoming out, but for weeks, it's been fine. Is my NO3 high enough? Anything I'm missing?

Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.

I have good nutrient, CO2 and light levels, why do my plants still grow poorly​

Many hobbyists spend time perfecting tank parameters, nutrient, light and CO2 levels, thinking that this automatically translates into optimal plant growth. While these factors are important, there are many other factors that affect plant growth.



For example above we have two groups of Lysimachia parvifolia growing side by side. Both groups have access to the same parameters, CO2, light, nutrients, substrate. However, the group on the right is growing poorly with darker, melting leaves and the group on the left is growing super vibrant red, with hardly a blemish.

This is not due to some arcane reason such as water flow hitting one group but not the other. The reason here is much simpler - the group on the right has been trimmed back repeatedly and allowed to grow in the same spot for a few months, while the group on the left was uprooted in the last month, divided and replanted. Overcrowding, both above and below the substrate, resulted in poorer quality new leaves being produced for the group of the right. This poor growth happened despite great growth parameters, a ton of CO2 and nutrients in the water column etc.

Different plants have different tolerances for overcrowding and aging. Some plant species regenerate well from repeated trimming cycles, others need replanting more frequently. Having great growth conditions delay deterioration of old growth, but most plants grow more optimally with regular replanting to clear congested rootzones and old growth.

Trimming and replanting cycles​

The exact number of trimming cycles each species can regenerate from, and the time it takes for old growth and root zone congestion to take effect is different for each aquarium environment. Generally, if aquarium conditions are more spacious, and there is more substrate depth and stable growth conditions, plants can grow in one spot longer. Stressful growth conditions, poor nutrient/CO2 levels and even poor microbial balance accelerate deterioration of old growth.

Interestingly, on the opposite end, overcrowding and root zone congestion also happens more quickly in fast growth aquariums. Hobbyists that throw a ton of nutrients and CO2 at their plants run headfirst into the brick wall that is overcrowding. This can be countered somewhat by using a portion of slower growing plants in an aquarium. The slower growing plants can be worked less often, while the fast growers are on a more regular replanting cycle.

Many aquascapers avoid stem plants because they require much more frequent replanting to grow well. Species such as Anubias, Bucephalandra and Cryptocoryne species on the other hand, have extremely long replanting cycles, and can grow for years without needing to be uprooted.



In this stem plant heavy aquascape that is around 7 months old, every single plant cluster has been replanted at least once. A sample of the replanting cycle for each species:

• Rotala blood red SG - every 4 months
• Rotala macrandra mini type 4 - every month
• Lysimachia parvifolia - every 2-3 months
• Xyris difformis - every 5-6 months
• Elatine triandra - every month
• Rotala florida - every 3-4 months
• Staurogyne purple - every 5 months

Uprooting, cleaning, replanting:​

To refresh stem plant bushes, we will replant the fresh tops of the plants, while discarding the older bottom portions.

The first step is to uproot the entire stem plant bush. To control the mess when pulling up the soil, we recommend using a water siphon to vacuum the area when pulling up plants. The siphon should be held very close to the point where the plant is being pulled up to catch the soil debris.

We will try to remove as much of the old root system as possible and also remove any organic debris that has accumulated in the area. While organic debris contributes small amounts of nutrients through decomposition, a build-up of organic debris will interfere with root formation for more delicate plants and will also trigger algae. To stir up the organic debris, we use a turkey baster to spray jets of water onto the substrate while vacuuming with a siphon. The aquasoil should look clean before we start replanting.


The next step is to sort the uprooted stems and select only the healthiest heads for replanting. (A) is a middle portion and already has several branches. It is a poor choice as it will give rise to very uneven growth. (B) is a weak cutting- observe how thin the stem is, and the lack of colour. If replanted, it has a lower chance of success. (C) is ideal. A thick, singular healthy top with healthy new leaves.

Enriching the substrate with new aquasoil​

When plants are uprooted, we can take the chance to enrich the substrate. There are two main ways to replenish depleted aqua soils. The first is to use nitrogen-rich root tabs. The second is to add fresh ammonia-rich aquasoil periodically. A good rate is adding 1% of new ammonia-rich aquasoil per month. For example, if you have 30kg of aquasoil in an aquarium, adding around 300 grams per month will work well. You can add new aquasoil during plant replanting cycles. Simply remove a portion of old aquasoil with a water siphon or spoon, then add and mix in the new aquasoil. This method may be cheaper than using root tabs in the long run



Replanting entire planted aquariums regularly is not feasible for most aquarists. So having an aquascape consisting solely of fast growing stem plants can be a nightmare when overcrowding and age sets in. Aquarists should plant a mix of slower growing species and species that do not need frequent trimming/replanting. Then the fast growing bunches can be replanted on a rotation basis - only one species is replanted during each weekly water change for example.Replanting work requires skill and dexterity. It is often difficult for beginners to manage, until some experience is gained. It becomes much easier with practice and time.

In this aquarium, Rotala florida, Xyris difformis, Syngonanthus species are all plants that can grow for months without replanting.



With consistent maintenance, aqua soils do not need to be replaced. The aqua soil in this aquarium is 1.5 years old APT Feast. Regular enrichment and clearing of detritus allows the substrate to perform like new. By renewing plant growth continually through replanting, and enrichment, planted aquariums also become more algae resistant.

This article is a slightly condensed version as I know folks don't like to be redirected, the full article can be found here:
Good parameters, Good CO2, Good light, Poor plant growth?

Hi guys!

I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.

The starting point:

I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.



I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.

Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.

I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.

I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.

These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.


That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!

Hi All,

This is something I've been wanting to do for years, and I think I finally found a sensor that will work. I've always had trouble reading the API tests, and I've always been miffed that the reefers get the cool digital test readers - and wanted to take a crack at building one that could potentially read any freshwater test given a blank/known concentration as a calibration.




A sensor came out from ams (AS7343) in 2022 that unfortunately has been made EOL, but has a replacement (TCS34488M) with a similar package that might work for future versions.


I recently got my hands on a qwic version of the AS7343 sensor from sparkfun, and figured its time to put together something.

Goals:

• As cheap as possible
• Universal as possible
• Fit API glass/plastic vials (not sure yet if the plastic vials will read ok)
• Start with Nitrate/Phosphate and see if I can add more there

I figure I'll need 2 light sources (warm white, and IR for reading the phosphate test), but can use the same sensor array across most tests. I can use a small-form ESP32 as the MCU to give it USB-C power, wifi/bt connectivity if needed, and keep it small. Small/cheap ~1.3" OLED screen for displaying results/selecting tests.

Enclosure will be 3d printed.



First pass at a sketch - I might drop the screen if I can give the device a web interface though, which will make the device even smaller/cheaper, reduces the need for physical buttons on the unit, and a 2nd pcb entirely. Also not sure if it will need a cover for the top of the vial, or how much ambient light will affect the reads. TBD. Will order some XIAO ESP32S3 to play with and see how far I can take it.

I'll log progress here, and am very open to suggestions and ideas. If successful, I'll release the files so it can be easily replicated.

Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!

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