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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Tank of the Month Forum
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Cooper Jacobs' (@Freshflora) 40 gallon Dutch-Inspired​

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Introduction​

I was born and raised in Los Angeles, CA. Went to the University of Wisconsin, Madison for undergrad and am currently in my last semester of law school at Southwestern near downtown LA. I've been in the hobby since March 2019, when I started with a 20g high with red gravel and plastic plants and ornaments. My passion for the hobby has pretty much just increased exponentially since then, with my progress really getting going once I discovered a few tank journals on forums from fellow scapers (who we are now fortunate to be active on this forum) and closely studying their methods. I have 4 tanks including this one, the other three are low-tech. This tank was set up in June of 2020.

System Profile​

  1. Display tank - Aqueon 40g Breeder
  2. Glass or acrylic - Glass
  3. Stand - Sturdy desk built into the wall of my bedroom
  4. Filter - Oase biomaster thermo 350 + Aquatop 65 surface skimmer
  5. CO2 - Inline NilocG Advanced Reactor with bypass
  6. Water circulation - Hydor Koralia Nano (240gph). Total GPH in my system is around 400GPH or around 10 per hour
  7. Lighting - Chihiros WRGB II Pro. 7 hours, 30 min ramp up and down. Par at the substrate is 100-120umols in the darkest parts of the tank and around 170 towards the center.
  8. Dosing - DIY Macros, Burr Micros. NO3-PO4-K + Fe = 30-9-35 + 0.9 . Water column target assuming zero fert uptake = 40-12-46.
  9. Water changes - 2 50-60% weekly
  10. Heating/cooling - 200W Heater

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Water parameters​

  1. Temp - 76F
  2. KH - 0-2
  3. Tap or RO/RODI - RODI
  4. Ca + Mg - 30ppm Ca, 8ppm Mg

Substrate​

2+ year old Fluval Stratum

Aquascaping style objective?​

Dutch-inspired
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Typical maintenance routine​

  • Squeeze out pre filter sponges from my Oase into a bucket of dechlorinated tap water.
  • Prime the filter and purge the reactor of any air. Typically this will cause a good amount of biofilm gunk from the filter tubes to fly into the tank, so that is why I do this before I do the water change and pruning so I can get as much of that gunk out as possible.
  • Clean the glass with a razor blade if I need to. When things are good, I don't need to do this often. I will also take a white laminated card and scrape the front of the glass in between the substrate and the glass.
  • Prune some of the plants. I try to top and replant as much as possible because that maintains more healthy biomass in the tank than topping would and typically looks better right after trimming. I will go from the tallest plants/background to the shortest/foreground, making sure to skim each area I uproot plants from with my gravel vacuum.
  • I do 50-60 percent water changes. I would do more but it's the most I can do with the size of my Angelfish. While vacuuming around the tank, I use my hands and a turkey baster to fluff the plants and get any gunk off the top part of the soil and the plants. I keep the filter running to get any gunk in the water column for as long as possible until the water gets too low.
  • Refill the tank, and while it's refilling I will empty/clean out the skimmer. I typically will then empty it out one more time the next day to clear any plant leaves and gunk it picked out from the water column after the water change/trimming.

Tank inhabitants - fish​

  • Red back Amapa Angelfish
  • 20 Cherry Barbs
  • 8 Cardinal Tetras
  • 2 true Siamese Algae Eaters - Crossocheilus langei (there are several very similar looking fish sold as SAEs but which either do not eat BBA and other algae or only do when they are young and devour moss and other plants when they mature)
  • L137 Pleco
  • Albino female bristlenose pleco
  • 6 false julii corys
  • Bolvian ram

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Tank inhabitants - plants​

From left to right starting in the front:
  • Downoi/Pogostemon helferi
  • Different rare buces
  • AR mini variegated
  • Lobelia Cardinalis mini
  • Crypt flamingo
  • Rotala macrandra mini type 4 red
  • Syngonanthus lago grande
  • Eriocaulon lineare
  • Anubias pinto
  • Hygrophila siamensis 53b
  • Echinodorus aflame purple knight
  • Limnophila vietnam
  • Ludwigia super red/Ludwigia Palustris
  • Acmella Repens
  • Mermaid weed/Proserpinaca Palustris
  • Water wisteria/hygrophila difformis variegated
  • Rotala blood red sg
  • Eriocaulon feather duster
  • Hygrophila sp. brown
  • Ludwigia inclinata meta

Any stocking regrets?​

Yes, I probably would not get the Angelfish if I could go back in time. I think there is a bit too much flow for it in my tank, and I may rehome it in the near future. Also I would have a bit less stocking overall. Substantial waste from livestock can hinder one's ability to push higher light levels, especially with slower growing plants like Buces.
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What do you love most about this hobby?​

I love a lot of things about the hobby--its unique medium for art, expression, and creativity; the connection with nature and life; and the tremendous amount of learning to name a few. What I love the most though is probably the community. Without the community, all the rest would be significantly less enjoyable.

Who was responsible for getting you into the hobby?​

One of my best friends got into it and eventually set up a pretty sweet medium-energy planted tank. I never knew about the huge planted tank side of the hobby before that--for me I had the notion of plastic ornaments and colorful gravel when I thought of freshwater fish tanks. Once I saw his tank, I started to look around on the internet and things went from there.
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Who in the hobby most influences/inspires you?​

Tom Barr, Dennis Wong, Vin Kutty, Joe Harvey (@Burr740), Gregg Zydeck (@GreggZ), and Chris Hendy have probably been my largest influences thus far.

What’s your dream tank?​

I have my eyes on a UNS 90u - 35.43" x 22.04" x 22.04." The idea of an extra foot lengthwise definitely appeals to me also, but I'm not sure realistically if I could keep up with the added workload that would require when it comes to a Dutch-style tank. Vin Kutty hit the nail on the head I think pretty accurately--one can expect about an hour per week of work per square foot for a dutch-style tank.
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What was your biggest challenge with this tank and how did you get past it?​

A high tech tank is essentially defined by challenge, especially a dutch-style, so there have been many along the course of this tank's lifespan, especially as someone who has not been in the hobby that long. I would say though that learning how to properly tend to the plants (uprooting, trimming, and placement) was and has been my most significant challenge.

I've dealt with it by finding people who have emulated the type of success I am looking to achieve and studying their methods closely. Pretty much everyone I have reached out to in this hobby has been more than willing to help out and answer any questions, which I have appreciated immensely.

What is the most valuable piece of equipment for this tank?​

Either my light or my filter.
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Any future plans for this tank?​

I anticipate having less time to devote to the tank for a while starting in March or so, so I plan on changing up the tank a bit then for sure. Probably will switch to more Eriocaulons, rarer Anubias, Buces, and plants like those which are less demanding than stems.

Any special tips for success or advice you’d like to share with other hobbyists?​

These are some of the most impactful pieces of advice I've taken away from the people who have most inspired me in the hobby:
  • A proven method doesn't fail, the hobbyist does.
  • Find people who have emulate the type of success that you are looking to achieve with your tank(s) and study their methods closely. Tune other people whose advice conflicts out, especially online, at least temporarily.
  • Never assume your CO2 is optimal, always check and double check.
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18 Replies · 6808 views
P
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I have a wonderful stand of erio feather duster that has been algae free for well over a year.

Wnen I firts got it, tufts of bba would form on it on tips and I would just pull them off…

This summer my display tank has been struggling with simmering algae issues.

Still doing weekly 2/3 water changes, keeping nutrient levels and all stable, trimming away degraded leaves…

My erio is in sad shape…


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I have tried spraying peroxide on it when doing water changes, laying the mass on a cafeteria tray and spraying on full strength and letting it set for 10 minutes before refilling to no avail.

I gave the fikters a thorough cleaning out, andremoved and reset plant groupings after thoroughly gravel vaccing the bdbs to remove organics…

Iam starting to think giving the erio a good hair cut way down low and letting it send up all new leaves.

Figure I would poll the audience before taking any such action…
1 Replies · 5 views
FatPleco
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
1000028024.webpHow long does it take for this plant to convert from emersed to submerged? I've had these for a month and this is what it looks like. A bit of new growth, but I don't know if it's normal to wait that long or if it's stunting. The emersed stems were tiny also.

Another general query is what is your general experience with the plant?
10 Replies · 521 views
CincyScaper
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
Inspired by @Naturescapes_Rocco ’s no-tech bowl thread, I decided to set up something similar.

With all the highs and lows of running a high-tech planted tank, I was hoping to put together something much simpler—a small bowl with no filter, no CO₂, and minimal equipment.

Bowl​

WGV Large Glass Bowl Vase
12" diameter × 10" height
Approximately 3 gallons

Light​

AREPK Aquarium & Terrarium Full Spectrum LED
5 watts

Substrate / Hardscape​

  • APT Feast
  • A single lava rock
I’m not actually sure what type of lava rock this is maybe @FreshTides_Neal can comment, since I picked it up from his shop. These rocks have a really interesting shade and texture to them.

Water​

RO water remineralized with APT Sky

Fertilizer​

None so far.

Dark Start​

I did a dark start for about 2 weeks after squeezing some mulm from an established filter into the bowl.

At the end of the two weeks, ammonia remained super high.

I eventually got impatient, did about a 90% water change, and planted the bowl.

Plants​

My initial goal was to use relatively fast-growing plants to help stabilize the system. Some of these may not necessarily remain in the bowl long term.

Current plants include:

  • Limnophila heterophylla
  • Pearlweed
  • Rotala ‘Blood Red’
  • Helanthium tenellum
  • Trident Java fern
  • Mini Bolbitis
  • A few assorted stems from my main tank
  • Some nice floating plants
I was also happy to get several of the plants locally from FreshTides Aquatics. Great-quality Tropica plants, and I’m glad to finally have access to a local aquascaping store.

Water Changes​

One of the biggest advantages of a bowl this size is how easy maintenance is.

A 75% water change takes less than 10 minutes.

For the last couple of weeks after planting, I’ve been doing water changes approximately every 2–3 days.

Experience So Far​

So far, the water has remained crystal clear.

Maybe it’s the fresh aquasoil, but the pH has been sitting around 6.6. For comparison, my main high-tech tank with APT Feast (about a year old) sits around pH 7 before the CO₂ comes on.

Plant growth has been surprisingly good. I also frequently see the plants pearling, which I wasn’t necessarily expecting from a little no-tech setup like this. The L.heterophylla has been trimmed once.

What has been particularly interesting is how easily plants taken directly from my high-tech tank seem to have transitioned to these very different conditions.

A bladder snail somehow hitchhiked in with the plants. It seems perfectly happy and has already started reproducing.

With the relatively low pH, I suspect much of the measured ammonia is present as the less-toxic ammonium form, which may also explain why the snail seems completely unbothered.

I am starting to see the power of frequent water changes with the lack of algae so far (fingers crossed).

Things I Might Do Differently Next Time​

1. Use a less nutrient-rich substrate or cap the aquasoil.

For such a small volume of water, APT Feast may simply be more nutrient-rich than necessary. I’m curious to see how things evolve once the bowl matures.

2. Choose a different light.

The light itself works fine, but the built-in timer is frustrating.

If I turn the light on at night just to look at the bowl, it interrupts the timer cycle, and I then have to reset it the following day.

I’m not particularly handy with electrical work, but ideally I’d love a simple light that could just be plugged into a Kasa smart plug and controlled externally.

If anyone has recommendations for a good small bowl light that works that way, let me know.

Overall, though, I’m really enjoying the simplicity of this setup so far.

Looking forward to letting it mature a little more and hopefully adding some red cherry shrimp soon.

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17 Replies · 841 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Lounge
Well...let's spend more money! I had thought about attending Aquashella - Chicago a few months ago but decided to pass this year. When I was thinking about it, they still didn't have the specific VIP guest list posted. Out of curiosity, I checked today and to my surprise, the man himself, Yusuke Homma, will be presenting the masterclass on Saturday. I can't pass that up when it's only an 8 hour drive. Ticket purchased, room booked. Anyone else attending?
21 Replies · 478 views
Capraquaria
Supporting I Donated 2026 AquaGirls
Last reply · posted in Journals
I wasn't quite sure what to do with this tank after it was damaged, as I have been a little concerned with the corner chip that it may leak. My initial thought was to just propagate some mosses in it, or turn it into a small paludarium, as that would not require me to fill it all the way with water. Well, I couldn't help myself. Found some lovely pieces of sturdy Manzanita that worked well together, and the next thing you know, 45lbs of Manten Stone shows up on the door step. Before hitting Aquashella in New Jersey, it was almost through the dark start.

Hardware:
  • ADA Cube Garden 60F (60 x 30 x 25 cm)
  • Chihiros WRGB II Slim 60
  • Oase Filtosmart 100
  • Jardli Lily Pipes (12/16mm)
  • GLA Cartridge CO2 Kit
Hardscape & Subtrate:

  • Ancient Manten Stone (ARC) - 45lbs
  • Manzanita (sand blasted) - 4 pieces
  • UNS Controsoil Black (normal & fine)
  • ADA La Plata Sand

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Finished hardscape:

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This tank is intended to be slow, and low maintenance. Inspired by Jeff Senske's 'greening' method, this is principally an epiphyte tank, and there are no stems. However, it was a fun challenge to work in a relatively tight space, especially front-to-back, and play with scale.

I drained the tank yesterday, and started planting.

Foreground:
  • Bucephalandra Kedagang Japan
  • Anubias nana 'Petite'
  • Fissidens nobilis

Midground:
  • Bucephalandra Lamandau Mini Purple
  • Bucephalandra Kedagang 'Round Mini'
  • Anubias minima 'Dragon Claw'
  • Anubias barteri var. nana 'Mini Coin'
  • Fissidens fontanus (Manzanita)
  • Fissidens crispulus

Background:
  • Bucephalandra 'Petite Blue Chili'
  • Bucephalandra 'Petite Galaxy'
  • Anubias barteri var. nana 'Pangolino'
  • Fissidens Miroshaki

As the tank was in a dark start when the mosses arrived, I tied them to rocks, and dropped them in a tank with CO2 until I was ready to plant. Worked quite well, and was easy to just snip the Terra Line off and transfer the moss to the driftwood when planting. Kept it healthy, and growing. Of course, if I was smart, I would NOT have glued the wood down prior to the dark start. That made tying Fissidens to the wood a bit challenging yesterday, but finally got it done.

Fissidens fontanus wasn't too bad, as the main arch is elevated a bit more

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Fissidens crispulus was a bit more tricky on the secondary arch, as that rock was squarely in the way. I noticed that crispulus was already pushing new green tips, as was the notoriously slow growing Miroshaki.

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I am not a huge fan of gluing moss or epiphytes, if I can avoid it, mostly because it messes up the hardscape. The majority of the buce and anubias species were simply wedged into crevices in the rocks.

As there was a little exposed aquasoil on the left and right rear flanks, I grabbed the pot of Marsilea minuta I picked up at Aquashella, and stuffed a few in high back corners. I was going to put some HC Cuba back there, and still might, but will be using most of it in the Sensei Stone tank, so didn't want to open the TC just yet. Once I plant that tank, I might sneak a little Cuba into this tank.

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I am not sure that a plant can really be adorable, but seriously, Bucephalandra 'Petite Galaxy', next to Anubias Pangolino? This buce is truly teeny tiny, and IF it survives, might be my new favorite detailing plant.

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As the Tank is shallow, and the plants are slow, I am starting out at around 28% light intensity while the plants, mostly TC, settle in. Will dose for the next 7 days with Seachem Flourish Advance, and am starting the tank out with APT1.

Here's hoping the plant melting and algae gods are kind!

3 Replies · 60 views
Mr.Shenanagins
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
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Well I’m done talking about it, it’s time to get this journal started.

I have been really out of it the last year or so in terms of maintaining my own tank, mainly out of frustration with time constraints and inconsistency with dosing etc. However, I have now acquired a dream tank, rimless and with low iron glass like I’ve always wanted. While I loved having a sump and prided myself on putting it together, I’m past that desire. The AIO allows the same benefits with hiding equipment, and overall easier maintenance without climbing in and out of cabinets. Now onto the details of this build.

Tank: Planet Aquariums Tideline 62 Gallon AIO Lagoon

Filtration: (2) 250gph pumps on either side of the tank with center overflow into socks (I’m going to punch holes in the socks for now and stuff with polyfill, reviews state the socks clog way too quickly and there is no replacement sock as the insert is not the common round style). The baffles will be stuffed with the poret foam I have already from my sump for extra mechanical/biological.

Substrate: The bottom layer will comprise of bagged pond soil/peat/earthworm castings/ STS. This will be a thin layer and will mainly act as filler to raise up the cap of APT Feast. This is similar to a substrate setup I did when I first started back up in 2020, And that tank did very well. While capping with sand and relying on the dirt to feed the stems worked well, it did require a little more effort on my end with dosing. I don’t trust myself to be as diligent as some members on here are with their inert subs, so I’m taking the mulligan and using aquasoil as a cap, hence, “dirty soil.” This will be another island style layout, and the surrounding substrate will be comprised of Caribsea Carolina Creek Sand.

Hardscape: River rock (local hardscape center sourced) and malaysian driftwood. I have recently acquired another large piece of wood and I’m sourcing new stone this week, as what I have just isn’t meshing with my current vision for the tank.

Plants: …. I have not solidified my vision of what this scape will look like just yet as I haven’t been able to setup the hardscape to outline the island. The plan is to use a good amount of colorful stems, epiphytes, and potentially moss.

Lighting: I will be ordering the Week Aqua Z400 this week and am excited to test it out.

That’s all for now, more pictures and details to come. I should hopefully have the hardscape setup by the end of this coming week after acquiring more stone and wood.

CO2: Almost forgot, for Co2 injection I have made a DIY Yugang with a locking food storage container. It will be stored in the cabinet and the hook will feed into the return pump chamber on the right. I initially was bummed that I had to sacrifice storage to fit a 5lb CO2 tank under the stand, which also meant getting rid of of the 20lb tank I’ve only been having to fill twice a year. @GreggZ Will appreciate this, my awesome father in law suggested that I hide the co2 tank in the pantry closet which is directly behind that wall and just drill a hole for the co2 line. Since my father in laws word is pure gold in my wife’s eyes, that suggestion was approved! He’s just as much my dad too so I appreciated him supporting the project 👍🏻IMG_3331.webp
61 Replies · 4434 views
mrmoss
Last reply · posted in Journals
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
74 Replies · 4116 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Media of the Month Forum
The theme for this month's contest is: Algae Patina
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This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. There is a fine line between algae on an object that makes it look natural and old (patina) and algae on an object that simply makes it look unkept and dirty.

Who can strike that balance best??

Please take a picture of algae patina in your aquarium. Be as artistic and creative as you like.

The rules:
  • Submissions are allowed between September 11 and September 23.
  • Voting will start on September 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
  • Voting will end on September 30 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
The prize:

A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!

Good luck!
5 Replies · 411 views
R
Last reply · posted in Journals
Hi guys!

I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.

The starting point:

I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.

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I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.

Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.

I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
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I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.

These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
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That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
68 Replies · 4539 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Browsed the Sreepadma booth at Aquashella briefly today. I'd not heard of them but they are the largest aquatic plant farm in India and have been selling their TC offerings in the US for about 2 years. I was actually impressed with the qualty I was seeing of their TC cups and wish I had room in a tank for some (and some ADA TC). Has anyone else purchased any of their plants. One of the first that I spotted was Red Tiger Crypt which was a coincidence since we have a thread discussing it.
7 Replies · 116 views
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