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Good parameters, Good CO2, Good light, Poor plant growth?

Dennis Wong

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I have good nutrient, CO2 and light levels, why do my plants still grow poorly

Many hobbyists spend time perfecting tank parameters, nutrient, light and CO2 levels, thinking that this automatically translates into optimal plant growth. While these factors are important, there are many other factors that affect plant growth.

Replanting_1.png


For example above we have two groups of Lysimachia parvifolia growing side by side. Both groups have access to the same parameters, CO2, light, nutrients, substrate. However, the group on the right is growing poorly with darker, melting leaves and the group on the left is growing super vibrant red, with hardly a blemish.

This is not due to some arcane reason such as water flow hitting one group but not the other. The reason here is much simpler - the group on the right has been trimmed back repeatedly and allowed to grow in the same spot for a few months, while the group on the left was uprooted in the last month, divided and replanted. Overcrowding, both above and below the substrate, resulted in poorer quality new leaves being produced for the group of the right. This poor growth happened despite great growth parameters, a ton of CO2 and nutrients in the water column etc.

Different plants have different tolerances for overcrowding and aging. Some plant species regenerate well from repeated trimming cycles, others need replanting more frequently. Having great growth conditions delay deterioration of old growth, but most plants grow more optimally with regular replanting to clear congested rootzones and old growth.

Trimming and replanting cycles

The exact number of trimming cycles each species can regenerate from, and the time it takes for old growth and root zone congestion to take effect is different for each aquarium environment. Generally, if aquarium conditions are more spacious, and there is more substrate depth and stable growth conditions, plants can grow in one spot longer. Stressful growth conditions, poor nutrient/CO2 levels and even poor microbial balance accelerate deterioration of old growth.

Interestingly, on the opposite end, overcrowding and root zone congestion also happens more quickly in fast growth aquariums. Hobbyists that throw a ton of nutrients and CO2 at their plants run headfirst into the brick wall that is overcrowding. This can be countered somewhat by using a portion of slower growing plants in an aquarium. The slower growing plants can be worked less often, while the fast growers are on a more regular replanting cycle.

Many aquascapers avoid stem plants because they require much more frequent replanting to grow well. Species such as Anubias, Bucephalandra and Cryptocoryne species on the other hand, have extremely long replanting cycles, and can grow for years without needing to be uprooted.

2hrAquaristDSCF8006E_Full_tank_show.jpg


In this stem plant heavy aquascape that is around 7 months old, every single plant cluster has been replanted at least once. A sample of the replanting cycle for each species:
  • Rotala blood red SG - every 4 months
  • Rotala macrandra mini type 4 - every month
  • Lysimachia parvifolia - every 2-3 months
  • Xyris difformis - every 5-6 months
  • Elatine triandra - every month
  • Rotala florida - every 3-4 months
  • Staurogyne purple - every 5 months
Uprooting_and_replanting_banner_3f78a62d-e80e-4698-ad77-42fe9135e4e3.jpg


Uprooting, cleaning, replanting:

2hrAquarist15_1024x1024.jpg


To refresh stem plant bushes, we will replant the fresh tops of the plants, while discarding the older bottom portions.

The first step is to uproot the entire stem plant bush. To control the mess when pulling up the soil, we recommend using a water siphon to vacuum the area when pulling up plants. The siphon should be held very close to the point where the plant is being pulled up to catch the soil debris.

We will try to remove as much of the old root system as possible and also remove any organic debris that has accumulated in the area. While organic debris contributes small amounts of nutrients through decomposition, a build-up of organic debris will interfere with root formation for more delicate plants and will also trigger algae. To stir up the organic debris, we use a turkey baster to spray jets of water onto the substrate while vacuuming with a siphon. The aquasoil should look clean before we start replanting.

Mini_macrandra_type_IV_green.jpg

The next step is to sort the uprooted stems and select only the healthiest heads for replanting. (A) is a middle portion and already has several branches. It is a poor choice as it will give rise to very uneven growth. (B) is a weak cutting- observe how thin the stem is, and the lack of colour. If replanted, it has a lower chance of success. (C) is ideal. A thick, singular healthy top with healthy new leaves.

2hrAquarist16_1024x1024.jpg


Enriching the substrate with new aquasoil

When plants are uprooted, we can take the chance to enrich the substrate. There are two main ways to replenish depleted aqua soils. The first is to use nitrogen-rich root tabs. The second is to add fresh ammonia-rich aquasoil periodically. A good rate is adding 1% of new ammonia-rich aquasoil per month. For example, if you have 30kg of aquasoil in an aquarium, adding around 300 grams per month will work well. You can add new aquasoil during plant replanting cycles. Simply remove a portion of old aquasoil with a water siphon or spoon, then add and mix in the new aquasoil. This method may be cheaper than using root tabs in the long run

Add new aquasoil
adding new aquasoil


Replanting entire planted aquariums regularly is not feasible for most aquarists. So having an aquascape consisting solely of fast growing stem plants can be a nightmare when overcrowding and age sets in. Aquarists should plant a mix of slower growing species and species that do not need frequent trimming/replanting. Then the fast growing bunches can be replanted on a rotation basis - only one species is replanted during each weekly water change for example.Replanting work requires skill and dexterity. It is often difficult for beginners to manage, until some experience is gained. It becomes much easier with practice and time.

In this aquarium, Rotala florida, Xyris difformis, Syngonanthus species are all plants that can grow for months without replanting.

2hrAquaristDSCF7609E_4ft_side.jpg


With consistent maintenance, aqua soils do not need to be replaced. The aqua soil in this aquarium is 1.5 years old APT Feast. Regular enrichment and clearing of detritus allows the substrate to perform like new. By renewing plant growth continually through replanting, and enrichment, planted aquariums also become more algae resistant.

This article is a slightly condensed version as I know folks don't like to be redirected, the full article can be found here:
Good parameters, Good CO2, Good light, Poor plant growth?
 
I had a feeling an article was coming soon after you mentioned in that other thread about wanting to do an uproot vs trim tank. I know much of this info is stuff you've been preaching for a while, I thank you for not growing too tired of sharing it out.

When it comes to trying to prevent overcrowding, are there any "rules of thumb" to follow? Is it based more on the initial replanting (as in, tops are replanted with a bit of space between each), or is it based more on the maintenance (trimming to create room, trimming to create natural node branching, etc)? I ask because sometimes as I am replanting (Rotala indica), I debate whether I should put 2-3 stems together in a bunch as I go, or put each a finger-width away from the next.
 
I learn more from the 2 hr aquarist than any other site…

The toughest thing was learning that it was among the very best sites..

When I first started reading it,I had a hard time accepting it since it contradicted the advice of so many reputed experts of youtube influencers…

But then I started carefully looking at the tanks on the 2 hr aquarist and the tanks of the reputed experts…. My tanks looked a lot like the reputed experts I had been following, and I wanted them to look more like Dennis Wongs tanks…. I figured I had nothing to lose, and decided to try his methods.

It made all the difference.
 
Great article Dennis. I think this is why many people fail with dense tanks who are relatively new to the hobby, or even the more experienced who just wanna try new plants. I believe there is not enough info out there about individual stems and their growth habits, a lot left up to experimentation individually. This as we all learn gets costly, constantly buying new bunches or pots, and watching things fail or scratching our heads at similar predicaments Dennis just highlighted.

Insight and observation is helping us all get better, one plant at a time.
 
Great post Dennis!

Confirms what I have been saying for years.

When people see a truly spectacular tank, they wonder what the secret is.

It usually means they are working harder at it than you.

There is a reason there is an old saying in the hobby......Keep your sleeves wet!

You are a testament to that. Well done as always.
 
I had a feeling an article was coming soon after you mentioned in that other thread about wanting to do an uproot vs trim tank. I know much of this info is stuff you've been preaching for a while, I thank you for not growing too tired of sharing it out.

When it comes to trying to prevent overcrowding, are there any "rules of thumb" to follow? Is it based more on the initial replanting (as in, tops are replanted with a bit of space between each), or is it based more on the maintenance (trimming to create room, trimming to create natural node branching, etc)? I ask because sometimes as I am replanting (Rotala indica), I debate whether I should put 2-3 stems together in a bunch as I go, or put each a finger-width away from the next.
A very optimization focused approach will be to plant everything in single stems, with a radius clearance of the adult size of the plant. Generally, I do like spacing stuff apart and allowing natural growth to fill the gaps. I think it gives a more natural grown-in look. As a general rule of thumb, if there are gaps for the plant to grow into, there is space to grow, whereas if the leaves can't spread fully open, the plant is starting to get squeezed.

However, I think there is some leeway for most species as plants are generally quite resilient. The more picky species are the ones where this sort of thinking carries more weight. So Hygrophila sp chai & Syngonanthus Vichada should be spaced out, plant in single stems. Whereas with Rotala blood red or say Ludwigia super red, will be more flexible and you can use them in bunches without much downside. Rotala rotundifolia species can be packed very density, yet show little deterioration due to the overcrowding - they don't elongate away from the canopy either.

Many plant bushes look great at higher density. So its a trade off on how often to do selective trimming to thin them out more, or to leave them squeezed. This is where using very high light levels can be helpful. If you have a tremendous amount of PAR, even half-shaded plants or tops that are slightly below the main canopy can still get light and grow.

2hrAquaristDSCF3880E.webp
 
I learn more from the 2 hr aquarist than any other site…

The toughest thing was learning that it was among the very best sites..

When I first started reading it,I had a hard time accepting it since it contradicted the advice of so many reputed experts of youtube influencers…

But then I started carefully looking at the tanks on the 2 hr aquarist and the tanks of the reputed experts…. My tanks looked a lot like the reputed experts I had been following, and I wanted them to look more like Dennis Wongs tanks…. I figured I had nothing to lose, and decided to try his methods.

It made all the difference.
You know, I never thought I was being contradictory
A lot of what I learned come from Tom barr, which I thought was quite mainstream - stuff like adding fresh aquasoil is something I learned from him. He has always emphasized horticulture work having much more impact than "parameters" which are easy to hit. But I guess quite often he label it as "elbow grease", and don't go into the specific actions of what that details (trimming off old growth, replanting new growth, clearing congested root zones etc). For seasoned horticulture folks, these may seem like basic stuff, but a lot of planted aquarium folks don't grow plants regularly outside of the aquarium?

The other body of work that I drew from is ADA. After visiting their galleries and seeing how those tanks are run gave me insight into how Nature style aquariums function quite differently from more densely planted dutch scapes. From there I guess I popularized the idea of lean water column, rich substrate as an approach to manage tanks. This is actually the prevailing approach of every commercial system out there, even if they don't explicitly highlight it - because ease of managing zero-bound stability systems vs systems that balance around elevated nutrient levels. I also thought that the ADA approach would be considered mainstream due to their size? CLeaning/trimming wise, they share the same approach as Barr does, but due to nature style plant selection, replanting is not done as often, that's the only difference. Both ADA/Barr use large water changes to settle in new tanks and solve problems, and both emphasize upkeep/cleanliness, water quality etc.

I'm curious, what does "youtube influencers" say that is so different ? I mean besides the more extreme cases of Father fish nonsense
 
I'm curious, what does "youtube influencers" say that is so different ? I mean besides the more extreme cases of Father fish nonsense

1.) All you need for a filter is a sponge filter. Canister filters are profit driven solutions in search of a problem that will just flood your house.

2.). You only need to change your water when nitrates get to 50 ppm.. then drop it to 20 ppm, and wait until it gets back to 50 ppm.

3.) 5 simple tricks to eliminate algae

4.) blue light channel should be no more than 5% be ause blue light causes algae

5.) you just need to dim your lights.

6.)Nobody can ever really be free of algae. You need to buy some Rosy Barbs, flag fish, siamese algae eaters amano shrimp etc etc etc, that will eat the algae.

7.) pull all of your algae infested plants and soak them overnight in seltzer water in the dark and replant them the next day and the algae will be gone.

8.) Don't chase water parameters or numbers. Work with what you have.


When you are starting out in the hobby, it is incredibly hard to determine who the credible sources are. How exactly do you determine who to trust?
 

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