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Hello everyone!
I’m starting this journal to document my ADA 90P aquascape and get feedback from the community as it evolves.
This will be a moderately planted, CO2-injected setup with a focus on a natural, balanced look.
I’ve kept planted tanks before, but this build is meant to be my most refined project yet — a clean, rimless layout inspired by ADA-style aquascapes.
I am using the following apps to help me:
— ChatGPT to help with prep work and to draft this journal.
— Amazing Marvin to organize my thoughts during this process.
— Copilot, an iOS-only app, to track my spending. I figure the calculations may help someone else planning to get into the hobby. (Spent $2,500 on the previous tanks.)
I am in the early stages of planning and do not have all my equipment yet.
I will either add updates to this post or pin another one lower down as I go forward with the scape.
I work in the healthcare field and have a weird schedule with long stretches of time off, so I can devote time to this hobby.
I have two elementary-age kids who have not yet begun showing interest in my hobby, lol.
I have a bad back, so I’m constantly looking for hacks that prevent me from hurting it more.
I had a fish tank growing up stocked with a few guppies and swordtails, which was eventually converted to a turtle tank due to poor maintenance.
My interest in aquascaping started in late 2023 after viewing a bunch of Instagram reels. The hobby helped a lot with my mental health.
My first tank was a Waterbox AIO 20, which I bought off Facebook Marketplace.
I learned the basics of lighting, CO2 injection, fertilization techniques, etc. from this tank.
Lessons learned from the experience:
I decided to go the Walstad route for this next tank. I went down the Father Fish rabbit hole and ended up ordering his substrate mix. I used ADA La Plata sand as a sand cap, and I guess, due to its finer texture, it induced anaerobic conditions.
It is no longer self-sustaining, so I am dosing with ferts intermittently. I’m also using it as a grow-out tank for future plant retrievals.
I’m aiming for a balanced nature-style aquascape with a triangle layout — strong hardscape slopes on one side with either an HC Cuba carpet or La Plata sand on the other.
This aquarium by Dave Pierce, owner of Aquarium Gardens in the UK, is my inspiration:
This cinematic is awesome
A detailed descriptive video by George Farmer.
Most of the faucets in the house aren’t compatible with standard attachments like those used with the Python water change system.
There is a garden hose outlet a few feet outside which may be compatible and I should look into.
On the bright side, the patio is right next to the tank location, which will make draining water during maintenance much easier.
There is one power outlet at the site, although it’s not GFCI-protected.
I eventually plan to set up a larger tank, possibly a 120P or Waterbox 4820 in the basement. My main concern at this time is protect it from my young kids’ boundless energy. I might install a protective screen or barrier around it to guard against stray soccer ball kicks!
I wonder if I should make a separate thread requesting advice about this stuff. I will see the level of engagement on this thread and then decide.
I have some stuff from the previous iterations but planning on buying a lot of new equipment. Have been sourcing used equipment from Facebook Marketplace. Luckily, I am a couple of hours away from Chicago, so that increases my options.
Tank:
Will be ordering an ADA 90P when it becomes available. I am also waiting for the Waterbox Blue Friday sale to see if the 3620 is discounted. There is a 2 inch overhang with the 3620 on the stand that I have ordered. I was thinking of addressing this with a piece of marine plywood placed over the stand but now second guessing.
Stand:
I have the Archaea Modern Cabinet in Driftwood on the way.
I was looking at ideas regarding undertank organization and could greatly use some advice.
I saw this image on Instagram and was instantly hooked:
This is an old image and the account is not very active.
I wonder if anyone has any idea about what waterproof felt pads are used under the filters and on the door.
This is what I am thinking:
I have a Jebao auto doser with dosing containers that will go on one side inside the cabinet.
Will mount an ATO device to the same side
I plan to attach two power strips to the back, one for the stuff that I can turn off during water change and the other for the rest.
Motion activated rechargeable light pucks go overhead.
One door will have a magnet to hold aquascaping tools on one side.
The other door will hold racks for fish food and chemicals/fertilizers.
Filter, CO2 and RO reservoir on the floor.
Lighting:
I got a good deal off Facebook Marketplace for a WeekAqua L 900 so will be going that route.
Initially, was planning to use an old Chihiros WRGB Pro 45 that i have but fell short lengthwise. Was planning to rim mount but did not like the aesthetic of the black Chihiros one.
I really love the ADA Solar RGB mount but 350$ is too much. I looked into DIY stands and currently researching 8020 T slot builds but it looks like too much work.
For now will use the rim mount that came with the Week Aqua.
If you have any ideas, let me know.
Hardscape:
I had a terrible time with driftwood on my first aquascape. I introduced it later after planting was done. I tried gluing it down on to a piece of slate that I got from Floor & Decor but it would neither stick nor stay down.
This time, I will be gluing Driftwood to black egg crate and place it in the tank before I layer the substrate. I won't glue down the rocks so that I can move them around.
I bought a large piece of Driftwood from Belinda's Driftwood which I will start soaking soon. It is Osage Orange apparently.
Will start foraging for smaller pieces soon. Planning to go to SR Aquaristik and other stores in Chicago.
Also looking for Frodo Stones and Black Lava Rock or Black Basalt.
If you know any deals, let me know!
Filter:
Oase Biomaster Thermo 600. Looking into filter media setup.
Debating between steel vs glass lily pipes. Outflow will have a skimmer.
CO₂:
I have a 5lb CO2 tank with GLA Pro Double Stage regulator, glad I went with this for the previous build.
Planning to get the ARC CO2 Reactor. This needs more research.
Heater:
Integrated in the Biomaster Thermo. I have another smaller Oase heater for redundancy.
Substrate:
ADA Amazonia II with Power Sand Advanced (layered). I will also get the powdered version if I plan to go the HC cuba route.
Base will be washed lava rock in mesh bags at the left hand corner to add height. This will be layered on top of black egg crate.
Fertilization:
Bought a gallon of GLA Nectar AIO after reading up quite a bit on this. I do not have the time to mix my own dry salts.
Will be doing EI dosing.
Using Jebao 2.4 WiFi 4 channel doser for auto dosing. Got it off FB marketplace for cheap.
Maintenance:
Water changes
I think part of the problem for my loss of interest in the previous tank was water changes. I hated carrying the heavy 5 gallon buckets and the mess that I made with them.
Recently, I saw people using eheim canister filter water intakes with strainer to do water changes. Seems like the perfect solution, hose won't fall off the tank and the strainer will filter out shrimp. Refilling should not cause hardscape disruption either with the strainer diffusing water flow. I will use a Python hook to hang the outflow to the bathroom sink or toilet.
ATO:
XP Aqua with an Ikea tote as reservoir.
RO water:
I had an Aquatic Life RO system jerry-rigged to a plank of wood to make it portable:
I will be look into installing a permanent one in the basement.
Tools:
Aquascaping tools from Hygger bought off Amazon.
Python water change system.
I have a power head for water changes.
Will probably get an additional Sicce Syncra 2.0 if I can find a good deal.
Plants:
This is the plant list that I came up with:
Foreground: HC cuba
Midground: Staurogyne repens, Cryptocoryne parva and Alternanthera reineckii
Background: Crinum calimistratum, Cryptocoryene spirali, Rotala rotundifolia, Cabomba caroliniana and Hygrophila pinnatifida
Epiphytes: Anubias nana petite, Bucephalandra kedagang, Microsporum pteropus trident
Planned Livestock:
Holy wall of text! Thank you for reading till the end! Will keep updating as I go along.
Edited for better formatting. Added ATO
I’m starting this journal to document my ADA 90P aquascape and get feedback from the community as it evolves.
This will be a moderately planted, CO2-injected setup with a focus on a natural, balanced look.
I’ve kept planted tanks before, but this build is meant to be my most refined project yet — a clean, rimless layout inspired by ADA-style aquascapes.
I am using the following apps to help me:
— ChatGPT to help with prep work and to draft this journal.
— Amazing Marvin to organize my thoughts during this process.
— Copilot, an iOS-only app, to track my spending. I figure the calculations may help someone else planning to get into the hobby. (Spent $2,500 on the previous tanks.)
I am in the early stages of planning and do not have all my equipment yet.
I will either add updates to this post or pin another one lower down as I go forward with the scape.
About Myself
I work in the healthcare field and have a weird schedule with long stretches of time off, so I can devote time to this hobby.
I have two elementary-age kids who have not yet begun showing interest in my hobby, lol.
I have a bad back, so I’m constantly looking for hacks that prevent me from hurting it more.
I had a fish tank growing up stocked with a few guppies and swordtails, which was eventually converted to a turtle tank due to poor maintenance.
My interest in aquascaping started in late 2023 after viewing a bunch of Instagram reels. The hobby helped a lot with my mental health.
My First Tank
My first tank was a Waterbox AIO 20, which I bought off Facebook Marketplace.
I learned the basics of lighting, CO2 injection, fertilization techniques, etc. from this tank.
Lessons learned from the experience:
- A 20-gallon was too low of a volume.
- An AIO tank does not really fit the aesthetic of an aquascape like a clear one does.
- Some Amazon swords are too big for nano tanks.
- The tank had a snail problem and inspired me to create a pea puffer species tank.
I decided to go the Walstad route for this next tank. I went down the Father Fish rabbit hole and ended up ordering his substrate mix. I used ADA La Plata sand as a sand cap, and I guess, due to its finer texture, it induced anaerobic conditions.
It is no longer self-sustaining, so I am dosing with ferts intermittently. I’m also using it as a grow-out tank for future plant retrievals.
Inspiration
I’m aiming for a balanced nature-style aquascape with a triangle layout — strong hardscape slopes on one side with either an HC Cuba carpet or La Plata sand on the other.
This aquarium by Dave Pierce, owner of Aquarium Gardens in the UK, is my inspiration:
This cinematic is awesome
A detailed descriptive video by George Farmer.
Residence Layout
Space is somewhat limited in my house, so the aquarium will be placed in a specific spot beside the fireplace.Most of the faucets in the house aren’t compatible with standard attachments like those used with the Python water change system.
There is a garden hose outlet a few feet outside which may be compatible and I should look into.
On the bright side, the patio is right next to the tank location, which will make draining water during maintenance much easier.
There is one power outlet at the site, although it’s not GFCI-protected.
I eventually plan to set up a larger tank, possibly a 120P or Waterbox 4820 in the basement. My main concern at this time is protect it from my young kids’ boundless energy. I might install a protective screen or barrier around it to guard against stray soccer ball kicks!
Equipment
I would be grateful for any feedback or suggestions regarding the equipment list below.I wonder if I should make a separate thread requesting advice about this stuff. I will see the level of engagement on this thread and then decide.
I have some stuff from the previous iterations but planning on buying a lot of new equipment. Have been sourcing used equipment from Facebook Marketplace. Luckily, I am a couple of hours away from Chicago, so that increases my options.
Tank:
Will be ordering an ADA 90P when it becomes available. I am also waiting for the Waterbox Blue Friday sale to see if the 3620 is discounted. There is a 2 inch overhang with the 3620 on the stand that I have ordered. I was thinking of addressing this with a piece of marine plywood placed over the stand but now second guessing.
Stand:
I have the Archaea Modern Cabinet in Driftwood on the way.
I was looking at ideas regarding undertank organization and could greatly use some advice.
I saw this image on Instagram and was instantly hooked:
This is an old image and the account is not very active.
I wonder if anyone has any idea about what waterproof felt pads are used under the filters and on the door.
This is what I am thinking:
I have a Jebao auto doser with dosing containers that will go on one side inside the cabinet.
Will mount an ATO device to the same side
I plan to attach two power strips to the back, one for the stuff that I can turn off during water change and the other for the rest.
Motion activated rechargeable light pucks go overhead.
One door will have a magnet to hold aquascaping tools on one side.
The other door will hold racks for fish food and chemicals/fertilizers.
Filter, CO2 and RO reservoir on the floor.
Lighting:
I got a good deal off Facebook Marketplace for a WeekAqua L 900 so will be going that route.
Initially, was planning to use an old Chihiros WRGB Pro 45 that i have but fell short lengthwise. Was planning to rim mount but did not like the aesthetic of the black Chihiros one.
I really love the ADA Solar RGB mount but 350$ is too much. I looked into DIY stands and currently researching 8020 T slot builds but it looks like too much work.
For now will use the rim mount that came with the Week Aqua.
If you have any ideas, let me know.
Hardscape:
I had a terrible time with driftwood on my first aquascape. I introduced it later after planting was done. I tried gluing it down on to a piece of slate that I got from Floor & Decor but it would neither stick nor stay down.
This time, I will be gluing Driftwood to black egg crate and place it in the tank before I layer the substrate. I won't glue down the rocks so that I can move them around.
I bought a large piece of Driftwood from Belinda's Driftwood which I will start soaking soon. It is Osage Orange apparently.
Will start foraging for smaller pieces soon. Planning to go to SR Aquaristik and other stores in Chicago.
Also looking for Frodo Stones and Black Lava Rock or Black Basalt.
If you know any deals, let me know!
Filter:
Oase Biomaster Thermo 600. Looking into filter media setup.
Debating between steel vs glass lily pipes. Outflow will have a skimmer.
CO₂:
I have a 5lb CO2 tank with GLA Pro Double Stage regulator, glad I went with this for the previous build.
Planning to get the ARC CO2 Reactor. This needs more research.
Heater:
Integrated in the Biomaster Thermo. I have another smaller Oase heater for redundancy.
Substrate:
ADA Amazonia II with Power Sand Advanced (layered). I will also get the powdered version if I plan to go the HC cuba route.
Base will be washed lava rock in mesh bags at the left hand corner to add height. This will be layered on top of black egg crate.
Fertilization:
Bought a gallon of GLA Nectar AIO after reading up quite a bit on this. I do not have the time to mix my own dry salts.
Will be doing EI dosing.
Using Jebao 2.4 WiFi 4 channel doser for auto dosing. Got it off FB marketplace for cheap.
Maintenance:
Water changes
I think part of the problem for my loss of interest in the previous tank was water changes. I hated carrying the heavy 5 gallon buckets and the mess that I made with them.
Recently, I saw people using eheim canister filter water intakes with strainer to do water changes. Seems like the perfect solution, hose won't fall off the tank and the strainer will filter out shrimp. Refilling should not cause hardscape disruption either with the strainer diffusing water flow. I will use a Python hook to hang the outflow to the bathroom sink or toilet.
ATO:
XP Aqua with an Ikea tote as reservoir.
RO water:
I had an Aquatic Life RO system jerry-rigged to a plank of wood to make it portable:
I will be look into installing a permanent one in the basement.
Tools:
Aquascaping tools from Hygger bought off Amazon.
Python water change system.
I have a power head for water changes.
Will probably get an additional Sicce Syncra 2.0 if I can find a good deal.
Flora & Fauna
Plants:
This is the plant list that I came up with:
Foreground: HC cuba
Midground: Staurogyne repens, Cryptocoryne parva and Alternanthera reineckii
Background: Crinum calimistratum, Cryptocoryene spirali, Rotala rotundifolia, Cabomba caroliniana and Hygrophila pinnatifida
Epiphytes: Anubias nana petite, Bucephalandra kedagang, Microsporum pteropus trident
Planned Livestock:
- Small schooling fish (e.g., chili rasboras, and Pearl danios
- Amano shrimp × 10–15
- Nerite snails × 3–4
- Cherry shrimp
- Maybe some Blue dwarf Gouramis.
Holy wall of text! Thank you for reading till the end! Will keep updating as I go along.
Edited for better formatting. Added ATO
21 Replies
·
2515 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Inspired by @Naturescapes_Rocco ’s no-tech bowl thread, I decided to set up something similar.
With all the highs and lows of running a high-tech planted tank, I was hoping to put together something much simpler—a small bowl with no filter, no CO₂, and minimal equipment.
12" diameter × 10" height
Approximately 3 gallons
5 watts
At the end of the two weeks, ammonia remained super high.
I eventually got impatient, did about a 90% water change, and planted the bowl.
Current plants include:
A 75% water change takes less than 10 minutes.
For the last couple of weeks after planting, I’ve been doing water changes approximately every 2–3 days.
Maybe it’s the fresh aquasoil, but the pH has been sitting around 6.6. For comparison, my main high-tech tank with APT Feast (about a year old) sits around pH 7 before the CO₂ comes on.
Plant growth has been surprisingly good. I also frequently see the plants pearling, which I wasn’t necessarily expecting from a little no-tech setup like this. The L.heterophylla has been trimmed once.
What has been particularly interesting is how easily plants taken directly from my high-tech tank seem to have transitioned to these very different conditions.
A bladder snail somehow hitchhiked in with the plants. It seems perfectly happy and has already started reproducing.
With the relatively low pH, I suspect much of the measured ammonia is present as the less-toxic ammonium form, which may also explain why the snail seems completely unbothered.
I am starting to see the power of frequent water changes with the lack of algae so far (fingers crossed).
For such a small volume of water, APT Feast may simply be more nutrient-rich than necessary. I’m curious to see how things evolve once the bowl matures.
2. Choose a different light.
The light itself works fine, but the built-in timer is frustrating.
If I turn the light on at night just to look at the bowl, it interrupts the timer cycle, and I then have to reset it the following day.
I’m not particularly handy with electrical work, but ideally I’d love a simple light that could just be plugged into a Kasa smart plug and controlled externally.
If anyone has recommendations for a good small bowl light that works that way, let me know.
Overall, though, I’m really enjoying the simplicity of this setup so far.
Looking forward to letting it mature a little more and hopefully adding some red cherry shrimp soon.
With all the highs and lows of running a high-tech planted tank, I was hoping to put together something much simpler—a small bowl with no filter, no CO₂, and minimal equipment.
Bowl
WGV Large Glass Bowl Vase12" diameter × 10" height
Approximately 3 gallons
Light
AREPK Aquarium & Terrarium Full Spectrum LED5 watts
Substrate / Hardscape
- APT Feast
- A single lava rock
Water
RO water remineralized with APT SkyFertilizer
None so far.Dark Start
I did a dark start for about 2 weeks after squeezing some mulm from an established filter into the bowl.At the end of the two weeks, ammonia remained super high.
I eventually got impatient, did about a 90% water change, and planted the bowl.
Plants
My initial goal was to use relatively fast-growing plants to help stabilize the system. Some of these may not necessarily remain in the bowl long term.Current plants include:
- Limnophila heterophylla
- Pearlweed
- Rotala ‘Blood Red’
- Helanthium tenellum
- Trident Java fern
- Mini Bolbitis
- A few assorted stems from my main tank
- Some nice floating plants
Water Changes
One of the biggest advantages of a bowl this size is how easy maintenance is.A 75% water change takes less than 10 minutes.
For the last couple of weeks after planting, I’ve been doing water changes approximately every 2–3 days.
Experience So Far
So far, the water has remained crystal clear.Maybe it’s the fresh aquasoil, but the pH has been sitting around 6.6. For comparison, my main high-tech tank with APT Feast (about a year old) sits around pH 7 before the CO₂ comes on.
Plant growth has been surprisingly good. I also frequently see the plants pearling, which I wasn’t necessarily expecting from a little no-tech setup like this. The L.heterophylla has been trimmed once.
What has been particularly interesting is how easily plants taken directly from my high-tech tank seem to have transitioned to these very different conditions.
A bladder snail somehow hitchhiked in with the plants. It seems perfectly happy and has already started reproducing.
With the relatively low pH, I suspect much of the measured ammonia is present as the less-toxic ammonium form, which may also explain why the snail seems completely unbothered.
I am starting to see the power of frequent water changes with the lack of algae so far (fingers crossed).
Things I Might Do Differently Next Time
1. Use a less nutrient-rich substrate or cap the aquasoil.For such a small volume of water, APT Feast may simply be more nutrient-rich than necessary. I’m curious to see how things evolve once the bowl matures.
2. Choose a different light.
The light itself works fine, but the built-in timer is frustrating.
If I turn the light on at night just to look at the bowl, it interrupts the timer cycle, and I then have to reset it the following day.
I’m not particularly handy with electrical work, but ideally I’d love a simple light that could just be plugged into a Kasa smart plug and controlled externally.
If anyone has recommendations for a good small bowl light that works that way, let me know.
Overall, though, I’m really enjoying the simplicity of this setup so far.
Looking forward to letting it mature a little more and hopefully adding some red cherry shrimp soon.
16 Replies
·
836 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
AquaGirls
I wasn't quite sure what to do with this tank after it was damaged, as I have been a little concerned with the corner chip that it may leak. My initial thought was to just propagate some mosses in it, or turn it into a small paludarium, as that would not require me to fill it all the way with water. Well, I couldn't help myself. Found some lovely pieces of sturdy Manzanita that worked well together, and the next thing you know, 45lbs of Manten Stone shows up on the door step. Before hitting Aquashella in New Jersey, it was almost through the dark start.
Hardware:
Finished hardscape:
This tank is intended to be slow, and low maintenance. Inspired by Jeff Senske's 'greening' method, this is principally an epiphyte tank, and there are no stems. However, it was a fun challenge to work in a relatively tight space, especially front-to-back, and play with scale.
I drained the tank yesterday, and started planting.
Foreground:
Midground:
Background:
As the tank was in a dark start when the mosses arrived, I tied them to rocks, and dropped them in a tank with CO2 until I was ready to plant. Worked quite well, and was easy to just snip the Terra Line off and transfer the moss to the driftwood when planting. Kept it healthy, and growing. Of course, if I was smart, I would NOT have glued the wood down prior to the dark start. That made tying Fissidens to the wood a bit challenging yesterday, but finally got it done.
Fissidens fontanus wasn't too bad, as the main arch is elevated a bit more
Fissidens crispulus was a bit more tricky on the secondary arch, as that rock was squarely in the way. I noticed that crispulus was already pushing new green tips, as was the notoriously slow growing Miroshaki.
I am not a huge fan of gluing moss or epiphytes, if I can avoid it, mostly because it messes up the hardscape. The majority of the buce and anubias species were simply wedged into crevices in the rocks.
As there was a little exposed aquasoil on the left and right rear flanks, I grabbed the pot of Marsilea minuta I picked up at Aquashella, and stuffed a few in high back corners. I was going to put some HC Cuba back there, and still might, but will be using most of it in the Sensei Stone tank, so didn't want to open the TC just yet. Once I plant that tank, I might sneak a little Cuba into this tank.
I am not sure that a plant can really be adorable, but seriously, Bucephalandra 'Petite Galaxy', next to Anubias Pangolino? This buce is truly teeny tiny, and IF it survives, might be my new favorite detailing plant.
As the Tank is shallow, and the plants are slow, I am starting out at around 28% light intensity while the plants, mostly TC, settle in. Will dose for the next 7 days with Seachem Flourish Advance, and am starting the tank out with APT1.
Here's hoping the plant melting and algae gods are kind!
Hardware:
- ADA Cube Garden 60F (60 x 30 x 25 cm)
- Chihiros WRGB II Slim 60
- Oase Filtosmart 100
- Jardli Lily Pipes (12/16mm)
- GLA Cartridge CO2 Kit
- Ancient Manten Stone (ARC) - 45lbs
- Manzanita (sand blasted) - 4 pieces
- UNS Controsoil Black (normal & fine)
- ADA La Plata Sand
Finished hardscape:
This tank is intended to be slow, and low maintenance. Inspired by Jeff Senske's 'greening' method, this is principally an epiphyte tank, and there are no stems. However, it was a fun challenge to work in a relatively tight space, especially front-to-back, and play with scale.
I drained the tank yesterday, and started planting.
Foreground:
- Bucephalandra Kedagang Japan
- Anubias nana 'Petite'
- Fissidens nobilis
Midground:
- Bucephalandra Lamandau Mini Purple
- Bucephalandra Kedagang 'Round Mini'
- Anubias minima 'Dragon Claw'
- Anubias barteri var. nana 'Mini Coin'
- Fissidens fontanus (Manzanita)
- Fissidens crispulus
Background:
- Bucephalandra 'Petite Blue Chili'
- Bucephalandra 'Petite Galaxy'
- Anubias barteri var. nana 'Pangolino'
- Fissidens Miroshaki
As the tank was in a dark start when the mosses arrived, I tied them to rocks, and dropped them in a tank with CO2 until I was ready to plant. Worked quite well, and was easy to just snip the Terra Line off and transfer the moss to the driftwood when planting. Kept it healthy, and growing. Of course, if I was smart, I would NOT have glued the wood down prior to the dark start. That made tying Fissidens to the wood a bit challenging yesterday, but finally got it done.
Fissidens fontanus wasn't too bad, as the main arch is elevated a bit more
Fissidens crispulus was a bit more tricky on the secondary arch, as that rock was squarely in the way. I noticed that crispulus was already pushing new green tips, as was the notoriously slow growing Miroshaki.
I am not a huge fan of gluing moss or epiphytes, if I can avoid it, mostly because it messes up the hardscape. The majority of the buce and anubias species were simply wedged into crevices in the rocks.
As there was a little exposed aquasoil on the left and right rear flanks, I grabbed the pot of Marsilea minuta I picked up at Aquashella, and stuffed a few in high back corners. I was going to put some HC Cuba back there, and still might, but will be using most of it in the Sensei Stone tank, so didn't want to open the TC just yet. Once I plant that tank, I might sneak a little Cuba into this tank.
I am not sure that a plant can really be adorable, but seriously, Bucephalandra 'Petite Galaxy', next to Anubias Pangolino? This buce is truly teeny tiny, and IF it survives, might be my new favorite detailing plant.
As the Tank is shallow, and the plants are slow, I am starting out at around 28% light intensity while the plants, mostly TC, settle in. Will dose for the next 7 days with Seachem Flourish Advance, and am starting the tank out with APT1.
Here's hoping the plant melting and algae gods are kind!
3 Replies
·
59 views
Rockstar
Journal 62G AIO Dirty Soil Lagoon
Well I’m done talking about it, it’s time to get this journal started.
I have been really out of it the last year or so in terms of maintaining my own tank, mainly out of frustration with time constraints and inconsistency with dosing etc. However, I have now acquired a dream tank, rimless and with low iron glass like I’ve always wanted. While I loved having a sump and prided myself on putting it together, I’m past that desire. The AIO allows the same benefits with hiding equipment, and overall easier maintenance without climbing in and out of cabinets. Now onto the details of this build.
Tank: Planet Aquariums Tideline 62 Gallon AIO Lagoon
Filtration: (2) 250gph pumps on either side of the tank with center overflow into socks (I’m going to punch holes in the socks for now and stuff with polyfill, reviews state the socks clog way too quickly and there is no replacement sock as the insert is not the common round style). The baffles will be stuffed with the poret foam I have already from my sump for extra mechanical/biological.
Substrate: The bottom layer will comprise of bagged pond soil/peat/earthworm castings/ STS. This will be a thin layer and will mainly act as filler to raise up the cap of APT Feast. This is similar to a substrate setup I did when I first started back up in 2020, And that tank did very well. While capping with sand and relying on the dirt to feed the stems worked well, it did require a little more effort on my end with dosing. I don’t trust myself to be as diligent as some members on here are with their inert subs, so I’m taking the mulligan and using aquasoil as a cap, hence, “dirty soil.” This will be another island style layout, and the surrounding substrate will be comprised of Caribsea Carolina Creek Sand.
Hardscape: River rock (local hardscape center sourced) and malaysian driftwood. I have recently acquired another large piece of wood and I’m sourcing new stone this week, as what I have just isn’t meshing with my current vision for the tank.
Plants: …. I have not solidified my vision of what this scape will look like just yet as I haven’t been able to setup the hardscape to outline the island. The plan is to use a good amount of colorful stems, epiphytes, and potentially moss.
Lighting: I will be ordering the Week Aqua Z400 this week and am excited to test it out.
That’s all for now, more pictures and details to come. I should hopefully have the hardscape setup by the end of this coming week after acquiring more stone and wood.
CO2: Almost forgot, for Co2 injection I have made a DIY Yugang with a locking food storage container. It will be stored in the cabinet and the hook will feed into the return pump chamber on the right. I initially was bummed that I had to sacrifice storage to fit a 5lb CO2 tank under the stand, which also meant getting rid of of the 20lb tank I’ve only been having to fill twice a year. @GreggZ Will appreciate this, my awesome father in law suggested that I hide the co2 tank in the pantry closet which is directly behind that wall and just drill a hole for the co2 line. Since my father in laws word is pure gold in my wife’s eyes, that suggestion was approved! He’s just as much my dad too so I appreciated him supporting the project
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Journal Farmer D. Singh's journal
Ive reorganized the order of my tanks so I can better keep track of them ie. Tank 2 moss tank is now tank 3. This helps in any confusion I had when tracking tanks they are in a sort of order now. Rather than taking time editing my old journal id rather create a new thread. Pics will be current (for the most part) as they are posted. I am not aquascaping. I am just farming.
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Well...let's spend more money! I had thought about attending Aquashella - Chicago a few months ago but decided to pass this year. When I was thinking about it, they still didn't have the specific VIP guest list posted. Out of curiosity, I checked today and to my surprise, the man himself, Yusuke Homma, will be presenting the masterclass on Saturday. I can't pass that up when it's only an 8 hour drive. Ticket purchased, room booked. Anyone else attending?
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The theme for this month's contest is: Algae Patina
This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. There is a fine line between algae on an object that makes it look natural and old (patina) and algae on an object that simply makes it look unkept and dirty.
Who can strike that balance best??
Please take a picture of algae patina in your aquarium. Be as artistic and creative as you like.
The rules:
A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!
Good luck!
This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. There is a fine line between algae on an object that makes it look natural and old (patina) and algae on an object that simply makes it look unkept and dirty.
Who can strike that balance best??
Please take a picture of algae patina in your aquarium. Be as artistic and creative as you like.
The rules:
- Submissions are allowed between September 11 and September 23.
- Voting will start on September 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
- Voting will end on September 30 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!
Good luck!
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411 views
Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
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4539 views
How long does it take for this plant to convert from emersed to submerged? I've had these for a month and this is what it looks like. A bit of new growth, but I don't know if it's normal to wait that long or if it's stunting. The emersed stems were tiny also.Another general query is what is your general experience with the plant?
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Browsed the Sreepadma booth at Aquashella briefly today. I'd not heard of them but they are the largest aquatic plant farm in India and have been selling their TC offerings in the US for about 2 years. I was actually impressed with the qualty I was seeing of their TC cups and wish I had room in a tank for some (and some ADA TC). Has anyone else purchased any of their plants. One of the first that I spotted was Red Tiger Crypt which was a coincidence since we have a thread discussing it.
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Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Anyone familiar with these?
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