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Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Aquascaping
A river somewhere.webp
This is A River... Somewhere, the amazing IAPLC 2025 Grand Prize winning work of Josh Sim. I think this is a wonderful aquascape to use to start the Learning From Series. I hope you would agree.

The Learning From Series

I have no talent when it comes to aquascaping. If I'm honest, this is also true for almost all forms of art.... So, I am in awe of people like Josh, our friend @Jeff Miotke and @Naturescapes_Rocco, along with many others that we are privileged to count among our community. I am also so thankful that they have the talent and choose to share it with the rest of us.

The reality is that although I can't create these works of art, I can certainly appreciate them. My talents lie more in keen observation, critical thinking and curiosity. You know, stuff that will never make me a millionaire but that do come in handy when you're trying to learn something new.

As I'm in the back nine of life, I've decided that I want to take some time to appreciate and learn from aquascaping artists such as Josh. Thus, the idea for this series was born. I'm calling it the Learning From Series because that's exactly what it is. And, I'll be documenting my thought process and learnings here as a series of articles.

We are a community and sharing is part of the fun. So, I do hope you jump in and participate even if it's to tell me that I've completely missed something important. Maybe we learn together.

Finally, given that I have a day job (unfortunately, it's quite inconvenient when I'm trying to spend most of my time here), these articles will likely come in pieces. My MO is deconstructing the aquascape so that I can understand it. I'm a savor the wine type of guy rather than chug the beer.

Initial impressions of A River... Somewhere

This aquascape is multifaceted. It hits me with a lot of first impressions.

It's so real, almost biotopy. Yet, it is perfect. A lot to digest. For now though, dinner is calling. More tomorrow.

-- Update September 18, 2026

Observations continued

Amano used to say that the plants were the paint in an aquascape. I usually try to step back from the details and look at the forest, if you will. I focus on just color. This aquascape is very strongly skewed towards green. The green mostly rests on dark wood tones and black shades.

Highlight green - a river somewhere.webp
In this image above, I've blurred slightly and then punched up the greens to make them more obvious. Green is about 75% of the color, would you say?

This makes me think about focal point. Usually we are told to have a focal point in our aquascapes and this should be made quite obvious through the use of a pop of color (usually red) and/or different leaf texture or style of plant. Do you see that here?

Also, thinking compositionally again, the use of a "vanishing point" is also highly recommended. Do you see one here? I'm struggling to find it. There is certainly depth here making it seem like the river continues well beyond this image. But, how does Josh accomplish this without an obvious vanishing point?

I think his expert use of very clear foreground items versus smaller, blurred background items gives the impression of depth without needing a vanish point. This tricks our minds into thinking the things in the background a far away. This, it seems, is where details matter.

Another observation is just how natural this looks. I can truly believe that this could be a scene in "some river... somewhere." The downed tree rests very naturally and appears naturally weathered. Has a natural patina created by skillful trimming of moss and plants. Notice that the moss is not an even carpet of green. It's different shades and textures.

Nature doesn't create golf courses of green. Nature is wabi-sabi and does not favor only one species.

The hanging roots on either side also pull on my attention and constantly fight to pull me away from the center of the aquascape. There are more on the right side than on the left. Why is that? I think it will be more obvious when we analyze the composition.

Finally, what would you say is more dominant in this aquascape, if anything? Is this more plant-focused or hardscape-focused?

I will have more thoughts as I continue to deconstruct this wonderful aquascape in my mind. Again, this is really an intentional stream of consciousness, folks. And please don't misinterpret my breakdown as any sort of criticism. This is how I learn, by peeling the onion one layer at a time.

More tomorrow. Composition is next.

-- Update September 21, 2026

Composition

Screenshot 2026-09-18 at 7.27.36 AM.webp
Here is the famous "golden ratio" superimposed onto the aquascape. Here are some of my initial thoughts but would love to hear what you see as well.

The idea of the golden ratio is to help you position focal points in a place that makes the overall composition seem more natural and pleasing. As you can see on the right side, the vertical line falls right on the pinky grouping of plants in the background. Interestingly, the fish grouping is also on that line. Do you think he did it on purpose?

You can also see balance by using the golden ratio. Here, the right 2/3 is definitely "fuller" or "heavy" compared to the left 1/3. I would say this aquascape is therefore "heavier" on the right side and "lighter" on the left. However, if I recall my "Amano", empty space is not necessarily lighter. Empty space can balance as much, if not more, than a completely planted area. Would you agree?

In this case, the left "emptier" side not only provides that needed empty space (called "Ma" in Japanese), but it also serves to create depth. You can see here how Josh uses the empty space to show those plants in the background that give that impression of a long distance behind the fallen tree.

Speaking of that fallen tree, it is drawing a diagonal across the entire aquascape. This creates a lower and higher triangle and again, one side is balancing the other well. Again, one is emptier with the other fuller.

Triangles are actually pleasing to our brains as it subconsciously provides a sense of order. It offers a subtle pattern that makes us comfortable. Do you think Josh knows this and has positioned that tree just so?

Screenshot 2026-09-21 at 6.12.59 PM.webp
When you look at how Josh put this together, see the video linked in the posts below, it's amazing and should give you and me some hope that we too can eventually end up with something that looks great. It's hard to believe he went from the above to the final aquascape.

So, for me, the composition is the bones of the aquascape. I am trying hard to find a vanishing point and I don't see it still. I am learning that maybe this is not a requirement.

Next I will cover impressions which is really what aquascaping, and art, is about.

-- Update September 22, 2026

I probably should have started with this but better late than never. Let's talk about the impression A River... Somewhere gives you. How does it make you feel?

At the end of the day, all art should speak to its viewer. It should have something to say and evoke in the viewer a feeling. That is the goal. You are conveying something similar to telling a story.

Let's look at A River... Somewhere and just take some deep breaths and ponder what you are seeing.

A river somewhere.webp
To me, this aquascape conveys a very strong story. It conveys peace, impermanence, imperfection, transcendence, nature, the passing of time. I can go on an on, like peeling an onion, the more you look, the more you see.

It feels so natural, like this could really be a river somewhere in nature. Idyllic, sure, but possible. Disbelief is suspended. I can almost smell the forest.

At a deeper level, I do get that same awe feeling I get when I'm in nature. Amano used to refer to it as our souls longing for nature. BTW, if you've never read The Nature Aquarium Book 1, the descriptions are worth the price of the book.

In the end, I think Josh is a master aquascaper with a special talent for creating an idealized version of nature and capturing its very real essence. Very deserving of its ranking and I'm in awe of such talent and hard work.

Now... let's talk about our own aquariums...

Sorry, that feels like a cold bucket of water hitting you. At least for me.

Does your aquarium tell a story and inspire a feeling when you are looking at it? Does its bones (the hardscape) build an intentional composition using perspective, the golden ratio, strong focal points that work well with the overall scene?

Alas, mine most certainly does not. However, rather than lamenting it, I am inspired because it gives me a reason to re-do it. I will use more intention and the lessons gained from this little exercise. Improvement is what I'm after, not the Grand Prize at the IAPLC.

I hope you learned a nugget or two from my ramblings. At the very least, I hope you enjoyed reading along.

I'm off to find the next aquascape that I can deconstruct in the Learning From Series.

All the best, Art
10 Replies · 584 views
Capraquaria
Supporting I Donated 2026 AquaGirls
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
I managed to acquire some Eriocaulon ratnagiricum. It should arrive early next week. I am pulling my 60U out of its extended dark start this weekend, and figured it would be an intriguing addition at the base of the large stones. (Not my image, this was from the seller):

eriocaulonratnagiricum.webp

I did read Dennis Wong's 'how to grow' for this species, which was very helpful, and will add some APT Jazz in the areas that I plant it as it seems it wants a fairly rich soil. Tank is 0KH, remineralized RO with APT Sky initially to dGH 6 when I initiated the dark start.

However, despite being sold as 'inert', the Sensei stone I acquired from AFA is most definitely not proving to be entirely inert. I haven't drained the tank yet, but will this weekend when I start planting, but this morning KH is holding at 0, but dGH is currently sitting at 10! There is a vein of quartz-like crystal running through the largest stone, presumably calcite, as it is driving the GH up, and leaving KH unaffected. Calcite reportedly can run in some Magura/Sensei stone. I am already reconsidering the type of shrimp for this tank based on the higher GH level, but I am wondering if anyone has experience with this plant in a tank with higher GH? This Erio is KH sensitive, and the tank is ok there, but I am wondering if the excess calcium in the water column, pushing that higher GH, might be less than ideal for this Eriocaulon?

I did consider sealing the vein of calcite with cyanoacrylate glue, and covering it in riccardia to maybe slow the leaching/rise in GH, but I think most of the rocks have at least some of this material running through them to varying degree, and I am expecting that the leaching could increase once the CO2 is running, and the pH drops. Regardless, if anyone has experience growing this lovely little spiky Erio, please share!
2 Replies · 60 views
Dennis Wong
I Donated 2026 Expert in Residence MOTM Winner
Last reply · posted in Journals
I have always liked Rotala florida as plant due to its strongly colored leaves, but realized that I haven't actually aquascaped much with it - meaning to integrate it as part of a layout and not just growing a bunch of it in farm/collector style tank. Using plants in a layout in tighter bunches, and in competition with surrounding plants/hardscape is much harder than growing it farm style in a single patch - it also means be able to shape/trim the bushes to match the overall curves of the layout.

Back in 2016 or so when I first received Rotala florida samples from north america, I could only grow it in sparser bunches. It looked nice in macro photographs but I could not envision using it an bush that would show off well as part of a layout unless I can grow it much denser. In the recent years, there were two main discoveries that I found in my experimentation, the first is that it grows better in moderate GH (5 dGH+) compared to super soft water (say <3dGH), and that it grew better in certain soil mixes (I experimented with different garden soil mixes when engineering the composition of APT Feast). Eventually I integrated some of the soil data into APT Feast's composition, and paired with the higher power lights readily available today, I find that I could finally grow the plant the way I envisioned as part of overall layout. I could prune it dense, as the base stems were healthy enough to sprout dense side shoots after trimming - and the secondary/tertiary shoot tips were as fully colored and sized similar to a primary shoot tip that hasn't been subjected to topping yet.

As a midground stem, it works very well due to its slower growth rate vs other colored stem plants.

Against the deep purple of Rotala florida, I found that Golden white clouds worked quite well. So now they are the main inhabitants of the tank.

Tank this week (25/6/2025)
2hrAquaristDSCF3912E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3880E.webp2hrAquaristDSCF3309E.webp

Tank started out like this:
2hrAquaristDSCF3039E.webp
A week or 2 after initial planting (5/5/2025). I reused old aquasoil from the previous scape, so I planted all plants up front rather than waiting more time for the tank to stabilize, with the idea that I could out-grow any algae issues. Initially wanted to add H. Chai but it really didn't fit the overall color scheme, and the bushes by the side were too invasive to be compatible with having a chai patch I think.

Since it was going to contain Rotala florida, I thought I might as well throw in other high demand troublesome species such as the Red Eriocaulon quinguangulare, blood vomit. I settled on Rotala tulunadensis for the background as I wanted something dense and shapeable.

Tank specs:
60x36x36cm
Filter: Oase biomaster 250, all sponge media
CO2 injected through inline atomizer
Substrate: APT Feast
Water column: APT Sky to raise GH to 5dGH, 2ml of APTe per day.

2hrAquaristDSCF3291E.webp
Light distance. Interestingly, not crazy high PAR - just around 200-250 umols PAR at the substrate level.

Name 3222E 2ft florida.webp

Trimming and shaping: Most bushes were shaped by cutting individual outlier shoots one by one. Only Rotala blood red and the Rotala tulunadensis was straight trimmed across the entire top once.

2hrAquaristDSCF331Ed5E.webp
This is how the Rotala tulunadensis looked like after a straight trim on 29/5/2025. About 3 weeks from when the top picture at top of this page was taken. It took the plant a whole week + to show new shoots. It seems straight trimming slows down the plant quite a bit, but allows for a very dense & neat canopy afterwards.


2hrAquaristDSCF4019E.webp
There are some interesting plants stuffed here and there. Some Eriocaulon caulescens? bolivia? that local hobbyists passed on to me. Carved out a patch for Syngonanthus vichada - slow grower, but the couple of babies that came have doubled in size so I think they should be alright. I think I will move them to a larger tank with more space.

2hrAquaristDSCF3317E.webp

2hrAquaristDSCF3931E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF4030E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3967E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3933E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF4061EE.webp

Only discovered the color combination with the Golden white clouds when the tank matured, but its one of my favourite fish-plant combinations now. I think that while some of the species are a bit picky about growth conditions, one thing I really like about this tank is that most things have moderate/slow growth rates, which makes maintenance with regards to removing excess growth less tedious.
Elatine triandra is used as a low growing green filler plant - it does this role well. As it does not root very deeply, I can easily cut and pull off excess growth easily. Its the fasting growing plant in the layout that requires frequent removal of excess growth.

Some more close-ups.
2hrAquaristDSCF3337E blood vomit.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3318E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF2763E Florida.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3232E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3171E tulu florida sunset.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3933E.webp
2hrAquaristDSCF3583E.webp

I'm trying to replicate concepts of this layout (slowing growing bushes) into my 4ft tank.
246 Replies · 36800 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
Time to start a new thread.

I’ll fill in some details later, but I’m working on the hardscape now. Any and all criticism is appreciated. The vision is nothing more, and nothing less, than something appealing to the eye.

90cm x 30cm x 30cm Lifegard Aquatics ultra clear bookshelf tank. Buce and anubias on the hardscape, stems towards the back and center, mid to front carpet with some changes in shade and texture down to a flat grade on the right side of the tank.

Lily pipe inlet and skimmer will be in the back left corner with the outflow in the front left to hopefully achieve circular flow. I’ll be running an in-line diffuser. Light will be the P600 Pro that I regrettably did not upside to 900. Oh well. I’ll mount it high and hopefully it’ll have enough spread.

I have some dragon stone and red lava rock rubble I’ll use at the base to blend into the substrate, as well as some stratum I may or may not cap with.

IMG_1824.jpeg


IMG_1874.jpeg

IMG_1877.jpeg
IMG_1876.jpeg

IMG_1875.webp
285 Replies · 32390 views
P
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
I have a wonderful stand of erio feather duster that has been algae free for well over a year.

Wnen I firts got it, tufts of bba would form on it on tips and I would just pull them off…

This summer my display tank has been struggling with simmering algae issues.

Still doing weekly 2/3 water changes, keeping nutrient levels and all stable, trimming away degraded leaves…

My erio is in sad shape…


image.webp

image.webp


I have tried spraying peroxide on it when doing water changes, laying the mass on a cafeteria tray and spraying on full strength and letting it set for 10 minutes before refilling to no avail.

I gave the fikters a thorough cleaning out, andremoved and reset plant groupings after thoroughly gravel vaccing the bdbs to remove organics…

Iam starting to think giving the erio a good hair cut way down low and letting it send up all new leaves.

Figure I would poll the audience before taking any such action…
7 Replies · 186 views
JayP
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Lounge
Well...let's spend more money! I had thought about attending Aquashella - Chicago a few months ago but decided to pass this year. When I was thinking about it, they still didn't have the specific VIP guest list posted. Out of curiosity, I checked today and to my surprise, the man himself, Yusuke Homma, will be presenting the masterclass on Saturday. I can't pass that up when it's only an 8 hour drive. Ticket purchased, room booked. Anyone else attending?
25 Replies · 800 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @drkenadams!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 18 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @Proff01!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 19 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Forum News/Feedback
This is the future home for the announcements when someone obtains an achievement badge. Let the games begin!
2047 Replies · 72855 views
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Kwyet
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
This tank was a Dutch-ish tank before we moved 2 months ago. This was one of its last pictures, very overgrown I know.

IMG_5970.webp

This time I want to make it a true Dutch, so anyone can chime in and help me. 🙂

After we moved, it ran low-tech with just a few tissue cultures until this week when I finally had time and materials to finish setting it up. This is what it looks like now:

IMG_6311.webp

I know there’s some bubbles showing in the vinyl cling. I’m having trouble reaching back there to smooth it out. I’ll have to think about how to fix that, although when the plants grow in it may not be visible anyway. I did read that you can have 1 rock in a Dutch scape, so I kept one. I may put Monte Carlo on it again, I haven’t decided.

So, details…

Tank: UNS 90U, 68 gallons

Light: Week Aqua P900 Pro, current settings R 40%, G 51%, B 20%, UV 0, Fan 100, Power 51%.
8 hours of light with 30 min ramp up/down
Par—no idea

Filtration: Fluval Fx4, currently running at 75%. Any higher blows the fish around. I expect to be able to increase it when the plants are grown in.

CO2: Yugang stainless steel reactor, 370 mm long, working really well. I had to turn down the CO2 a bit today because the drop was more than I expected (from degassed 7.4 to 5.9). I’ve already changed the end cap to the medium setting, but I think I’m just going to make further adjustments with the regulator. Call it laziness, but since there aren’t any double taps available for the Fx4 tubing that’s going to be easier for me. Anyway, I really like it. It’s completely silent and does its job well.

Substrate: Aqua Natural Galaxy sand, with a few Aquarium Coop root tabs.

Other: Oase CrystalSkim 350 skimmer, Kactoily 6-in-1 water quality monitor

Fertilizer: Until today I’ve just been using Easy Green. Today I installed the Chihiro’s dosing system with PPS-Pro, 6 ml macros and 3 ml micros daily. On water change day, I’ll add another 2 ml macros. I’m currently changing 20% of the water once a week. I’ll increase if necessary.

Parameters: Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, gH 6, kH 2, TDS 222, 70-74 F

Plants (mostly from @Burr740 thanks!):

Leopard Val
Echinodorus Aflame
Hydrocotyle Tripartita (coming)
Penthorum Sedioides
Crypt Wendtii Sindoor
Lobelia cardinalis mini
Bacopa colorata
Rotala (? back left corner)
Limnophila wilsonii
Nymphae Peru Puerto Maldonade
Rotala macrandra Kochi
Nymphoides Taiwan

I’m not sure I like the Leopard Val in there. Should I put it in my 125 gallon instead, and move the Limnophila wilsonii to that spot?

Fish:

1 Honey Flame Gourami
4 Ember tetras
8 Otos
2 Pygmy sunfish
4 Red neon blue-eyed rainbowfish
9 Pygmy Cory catfish
9 male Lime Green Endlers
1 Leopard Danio (last of a group)
A few random Amano and Neocaridina shrimp and snails

The fish list will change as I get more tanks set up. I would like to end up with just the gourami, Otos, Rainbowfish (but more of them), and Pygmy Cories.

Well, that’s a start. Thanks for reading!
289 Replies · 30107 views
A
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Equipment Discussions
This is going to be a weird doubt

I don’t keep surface agitation very high in my tank , mainly because it has an overflow & I find the returns pointed downwards keep the substrate much cleaner than the returns pointed upwards

I have 2 returns

One on the front left & other other on the back right , both pointed downwards,

This dosent let any debris settle & pushes everything into the overflow

The overflow is connected to a DIY sump , kept outside the house , which is basically 3 HDPE barrels (120 ltrs /30 gallons each)

The way the sump is designed ., there is hardly any surface movement in the sump too , all the outlets of the barrels are pushed deep down the next barrel & split in such a way that even tho 6500 ltrs per hour (1700gph) is being pumped through the barrels there is absolutely no splashing at all



For oxygenation there is a large Air pump with 4 outlets in the 2nd barrel ( the bio barrel) which is on a timer & switches on after CO2 & remains on till Co2 starts

CO2 is supplied by 2 cerges type reactors , one on each return line , installed after the 3rd barrel)


I was wondering if anyone has ever experimented with injecting air in the said reactor rather than co 2, if Co2 can be dissolved I am sure so can air

All I have to do is drill an extra hole in reactor, connect a tubing to an air pump & start the same on a timer

This way I can keep the tank oxygenated probably much more that what surface agitation would do
1 Replies · 62 views
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